Maintenance Time
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Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Tennessee
Maintenance Time
Well we're over 100,000 on the 2000 F250 it's time for some serious maintenance.
I've been looking around trying to figure out which coolant to run in the truck. From what I can gather the Rotella coolant doesn't require the additives. Is that correct? Are all coolants that are labeled pre-charged safe for use without the additive?
It's time to change fluid in diffs, tranny(6spd), and transfer case. I know the tranny and transfer case run ATF. I am assuming the diffs run gear oil. Is synthetic worth the money in these applications? Anybody recomend a brand?
I've been looking around trying to figure out which coolant to run in the truck. From what I can gather the Rotella coolant doesn't require the additives. Is that correct? Are all coolants that are labeled pre-charged safe for use without the additive?
It's time to change fluid in diffs, tranny(6spd), and transfer case. I know the tranny and transfer case run ATF. I am assuming the diffs run gear oil. Is synthetic worth the money in these applications? Anybody recomend a brand?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
I run Redline oil in all my gear cases. Yes IMO the syn is well worth the money, if nothing but for my piece of mind that I am getting the best oil that money can buy for my truck.
I recently flushed out my '99, had the green stuff, messing with the additive all the time. Completely flushed out the cooling system and refilled it with a 50/50 mix of Shell Rotella ELC coolant and distilled water. They claim that it is good for 300,000 miles if you do that.
I recently flushed out my '99, had the green stuff, messing with the additive all the time. Completely flushed out the cooling system and refilled it with a 50/50 mix of Shell Rotella ELC coolant and distilled water. They claim that it is good for 300,000 miles if you do that.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,111
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by Seatow
Where is Redline available?
So with the Rotelle ELC you can forgo the additive?
So with the Rotelle ELC you can forgo the additive?
Yes on foregoing the SCA's I wouldn't have done it otherwise. It's quite a bit more expensive than the regular stuff.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Seatow
Well we're over 100,000 on the 2000 F250 it's time for some serious maintenance.
I've been looking around trying to figure out which coolant to run in the truck. From what I can gather the Rotella coolant doesn't require the additives. Is that correct? Are all coolants that are labeled pre-charged safe for use without the additive?
It's time to change fluid in diffs, tranny(6spd), and transfer case. I know the tranny and transfer case run ATF. I am assuming the diffs run gear oil. Is synthetic worth the money in these applications? Anybody recomend a brand?
I've been looking around trying to figure out which coolant to run in the truck. From what I can gather the Rotella coolant doesn't require the additives. Is that correct? Are all coolants that are labeled pre-charged safe for use without the additive?
It's time to change fluid in diffs, tranny(6spd), and transfer case. I know the tranny and transfer case run ATF. I am assuming the diffs run gear oil. Is synthetic worth the money in these applications? Anybody recomend a brand?
My 2 cents worth.
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New User
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Buffalo, NY
for the rear differential you have to make sure you put the correct weight in. it is either 75/90 or 90/140 (or something like that). if you crawl under the rear end, there is a 'dog tag' atttached under one of the bolts holding the cover on (you might have to scrape the grime off) unfortunately the 140 is like 15 bucks (i think it takes 4) and the 75/140 is 6 bucks
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by erhvette790
for the rear differential you have to make sure you put the correct weight in. it is either 75/90 or 90/140 (or something like that). if you crawl under the rear end, there is a 'dog tag' atttached under one of the bolts holding the cover on (you might have to scrape the grime off) unfortunately the 140 is like 15 bucks (i think it takes 4) and the 75/140 is 6 bucks
u can do much better than that at NAPA. Also, i replaced my cover with a MAg-hytec cover for easy maintenance.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,438
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From: New Hampshire
Originally Posted by Seatow
How much coolant does it take?
this is a really good thing to have too:Saves waterpumps.http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...RODGROUP&ID=13 coolant bypass filter
Last edited by PSNut; Dec 5, 2005 at 09:01 PM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,248
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
If you go to [url="http://www.redlineoil.com"]Yes on foregoing the SCA's I wouldn't have done it otherwise. It's quite a bit more expensive than the regular stuff.
I just picked up a coolant filter. I'll run the coolant filter for a while to remove any sand or other crud, then flush the system and replace with the Rotella ELC.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
I am no expert but i have been reading on the internet on different sites and they say if your PSD is a 2001 or prior, not to use extended use type coolant and to stay with the green stuff that came with your engine coolant system and use the additive as described in your owners manual.. One example is:
http://www.off-road.com/ford/news/2003_07/coolant/
Please correct me if i am reading this wrong..
http://www.off-road.com/ford/news/2003_07/coolant/
Please correct me if i am reading this wrong..
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2004
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Interesting. I'll have to do some more research. According to another source - one can't seem to find now - propylene glycol is supposed to be safe. Of course, considering the price, I'll certainly be sure before I spend the money.
That doesn't change the plan for the coolant filter, though. If I can scrape up the time, that gets installed this week.
That doesn't change the plan for the coolant filter, though. If I can scrape up the time, that gets installed this week.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
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From: Utah County, UT
If you are removing the covers here is a little something to think about as well. Don't know the temp where you are at, but here is still freezing all day long right now, which sucks because the average high is supposed to be mid 40s. Anyway back to the point, I plan on doing the diffs as well, but am shying off right now as I want the silicone to adhere in place when it is warm. Truck is outside all the time and have no shop to change the fluids in. I don't want to change it then have it leak everywhere because the silicone didn't set properly due to the cold temps.