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I'm just going to comment here, that my driveshaft, (main-rear), broke, and after wiring up the shafts' ends with coat hangers, I assumed that I could just put it in 4x4 and drive it home. But no. A tow was needed. How odd.
The coat hangers were only to keep the shaft ends from flopping around on the road. I thought that the front wheels would drive it. I was told that some vehicles would do that.
it needs resistance from the rear wheels. It's kinda like a non-locking rear diff. The transfer case that I can think of that wouldn't have this is the atlasII. It has the front and rear independant of each other.
I think it should work there is no center diff. The TC doesnt care if the rear shaft is connected to the rear end. Maybe your 4wd is not working?
In fact I thought I read (maybe in the manual) that you could use it as a 2wd front for short trips if you tow it on a dolly and disconnect the rear. (If you have a motorhome or whatever, you would disconnect it in order not to rack up miles on it I guess).
towing's a different story. There isn't any power going to any of the wheels, so the position of your tc dosen't matter. As for the disconnect, I'm guessing it was either the rear axle or tranny sensor that deals with the speedometer, which also deals with mileage.
What I am saying is, if you tow your ranger around with a motor home (with the fromt wheels on a trailer) then you would disconnect the rear drive shaft. Then for short trips while the motor home was parked, you could use the ranger as FWD and not connect and disconnect the DS every time.
I don't know about modern transfer cases, but my grandfather had a 4x4 WWII Dodge, and broke the driveshaft. Tried to drive it home with the t-case in 4wd, which worked fine. Only problem was, whatever he busted the driveshaft on took out the brake lines too, and the parking brake in old Dodges worked on...the rear driveshaft. I hear it was real fun ride home!
exactly what year truck are we talking about here? do they all have the BW 1350? Because theoretically yes, it should work. Exactly what was happening? You put it in 4x4, and then put it in drive, and then what? Did it just act like you were pushing on the gas and the brake at the same time? or did something else happen, did it just rev and not go anywhere, because if you have a ranger with the auto hubs (93-97) i believe the front wheels have to be moving in order for them to engage. Also, the PVH hubs in 98-(00?) probably needs some kind of signal in order to lock the hubs in. And amish77, i believe the system your talking about is in vehicles with AWD, like the dodge minivans & other AWD cars that dont have a true transfer case, but like a viscous coupling, where it acts like a differential. Because i know that on my ranger (94) there is no differentiation between the front and rear driveshaft. Same with my 85 F150 that has the NP 208 in it.
Well, from what I hear from 4WD users, in 4WD a quarter of the torque is sent to each wheel. So, assuming the rear driveshaft is attempting to be turned, the front would be getting half the torque. Correct my if I'm wrong, I drive a 2WD for a reason.
O.K. Here's the sum of the story; I could not find a used 93 Ranger, single-cab, stick, short bed, driveshaft. So I had to take the shaft to a rebuilder in Allen Park, Mi. He said that the rubber boot held water inside and rusted or corroded it so that it came apart where the shaft is joined to the end. $190.00. The only broken shaft that's not due to damage, that he's ever seen.
P.S. So for the last two days, and our very first two days of snow and salt, my new Black Mustang G.T. convertible, (700 miles), became my salt car for my Ranger.
Last edited by Ford Tradesman; Dec 5, 2005 at 08:13 PM.
Reason: Forgot something