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for those of you who might want to know what its like, i've added a new tech gallery thats a front and rear gear swap on a super duty. took 3 men who know how. a day to do both ends. with the front dana being a royal pia.
I've done two Dana's, a D30 and a D44. It's as much an art as it is a science. Very easy to mess up. Just remember to break the new gears in easy. There is a correct way to do it. No high speed driving until they are broken in.
on the brand new set we run it for a hour on the lift. road test, cooldown, road test cooldown as per who ever makes the sets instructions. in this case it's yukon from randys gears.
on the brand new set we run it for a hour on the lift. road test, cooldown, road test cooldown as per who ever makes the sets instructions. in this case it's yukon from randys gears.
Ditto. Many a brand new set of gears have been ruined by just taking them out on the highway and driving 70 mph. New gears can get extremely hot if not properly broken in.
the 56's that went into mine were a used set and all the shimms that came out of the other truck set mine up dead on. so i'm just playing cool for a little while more as by then i'll have 1k on them. it's the 513 set that will take a little time as we set them up to the tight side of the specs knowing all to well they will be perfect when broken in.
another thing i do on changes or swap outs is change the oil after 1 k. just to see if all is ok back lash wise
Charlie,only one thing you forgot to mention on that front dana 60 swap is to be very careful with putting those front axles back in.The inner axle shaft seals can get damaged if you horse them in.The splines can cut those seals.Alot of people don't even know there in there.And in a few days or weeks after doing a swap or ball joints repairs the gear fluid will apear at the end of the tubes and drip . In one of your pics you can almost see them,just past the carrier bearing bores.
o-yeh how correct. randys rebuild kits have the new seals in them. they are inside the rear houseing and go in before you put the carrier back in. the new seals are snug and the axle it self is a royal pia to put back in. as are the esof seals before you bolt the hubs back on.
over all figure 1 to 2 hours more when doing the front then the rear
Great pics, Charlie. You did the right thing going to the 4.56s. 10s and 30s are too close for that much work. If I ever decide to go that way it will be the 4.56s for sure.
Take care and thanks for a great post. I blew the rear end in my 81 F250, stripped the ring and pinion right out and the shop that worked on it said it was a poor shimming job from the factory that caused the failure. The noise that rear end made just before it scattered was incredible. I was pulling my fifth wheel up an 8% grade and the noise started building.
The noise travels up the drive train and my wife and the kids and myself, we all thought it was under the hood. There was no place to pull over and oil pressure and engine temp were fine , I thought the exhaust manifold had let go, the noise was unbelievable, then the rear wheels locked for a couple of seconds and then a big explosion and we were coasting to a stop. It was quite the experience.
Last edited by Wrenchtraveller; Dec 3, 2005 at 11:27 PM.
A little trick I use ,and I should have mention is to grease up those splines real good before sliping them back in.almost a glob of grease on the end of the axle.
Rich