brake caliper
Mark C.
When I changed my calipers, I made sure they had steel pistons.
As for the caliper hanging up, the piston could be slightly cocked inside the bore.
It that's the problem, just carefully reposition the piston (a large c-clamp and a flat steel bar); at least on my truck.
My caliper piston cocked so bad that I had to use both hands on one side of the steering wheel to keep the truck in its lane on the freeway.
When I got to where I could stop, the grease cap popped off, wheel bearing grease was bubbling (boiling) and you couldn't even touch the wheel; turned the rotor blue.
Other things to look out for since you're in there. Clean and repack the wheel bearings, realizing yours is a 2wd, the 4x4 owners should also carefully look at the u-joints on the front axle shafts. You've got most of it apart, at this point.
One thing to watch out for...dried or drying out flex-line hoses(the rubber hose that attaches your hard brake lines to the caliper. It these even look like they are drying out, they can collapse on the inside, thus not allowing your calipers to release.
There is something to be said for doing your own work, but knowing what it is you're looking at is another issue. Replacing one part, but not others can end up in tossing dollars after nickles. Best off to spend a few more bucks, do it right once, and not have to come back to it for a while, rather than just try to get by on the bare minimums.
RR4E, thanks for mentioning the front rubber brake hoses.
That made me think of the rear hose.
RR4E, Thanks for the info. I changed rotors, pads, wheel bearings and calipers when I did the work a year ago. I was in the wrenching businees for 14 years, and understand the importance of doing a complete axle when doing work on brakes. But I didn't think about the brake line colapsing, and I beleive their the original lines. New lines will be installed this weekend. What are your thoughts on phenolic vs. steel pistons?
Thanks again for the info.
Mark C.



