Virgin Ranger User :)
I personally will not get near quaker state, like Frdrngrlvr stated. I have worked on 4 engines in my life (305 Chevy, 4.3 Chevy, a 400 Ford and a 318 Dodge) that had quaker state used. All of them were under 100,000 miles when lifters started tappin and they eventually blew up (which is why I had them to work on.) Took the valve covers off and the insides of them were COVERED in nasty sooty crap. It almost looked like Gojo was all over the inside of this engine.
Never had that problem with any other engine I've worked on, that had used other oil, including the cheap stuff!
The manufacturers give those specs out for a reason. If it matches the specs, it will be fine. They can't just say it matches the specs, if there were problems due to an oil claiming to match the specs not matching the specs, the oil company could be in a world of fecal matter lol.
I meant to say, if you don't use Motorcraft filters, make sure the oil filter you do use, has the BY~PASS valve located in the threaded BASE end of the filter, rather than the top/closed end, where many have their by~pass valve located. If it's located there, debie that has setteled out there, can be washed right back into the engine, when the by~pass valve opens during cold morning starts, or high rpm operation.
This is less likely to happen, with the by`pass valve correctly located in the threaded base end of our inverted mounted Motorcraft filter!!!!
Here is a good article that I found that talks about the use of synthetics and how they are superior.
http://www.mr2.com/TEXT/synth_oil.txt
I'm not a dealer or anything like that, I just like synthetics and mobil 1.
I meant to say, if you don't use Motorcraft filters, make sure the oil filter you do use, has the BY~PASS valve located in the threaded BASE end of the filter, rather than the top/closed end, where many have their by~pass valve located. If it's located there, debie that has setteled out there, can be washed right back into the engine, when the by~pass valve opens during cold morning starts, or high rpm operation.
This is less likely to happen, with the by`pass valve correctly located in the threaded base end of our inverted mounted Motorcraft filter!!!!
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Ford contracts out their oil, so every couple years some other company is making it to Ford specs, so it's a different brand every couple years. My brother has worked at a Ford dealer for 20 years and agrees. Why not just pick a good brand and stick with it.
Here is my deal, I only use 2 oils.
For regular oil I like Castrol (with WIX), for synthetic I like Amsoil (with Amsoil filter).
I use Castrol to break in a new engine or clean out a used one.
Depending on mileage I use one of two Amsoil oils. If it's something that only goes 10-12k a year I use their 7,500 mile oil.
If it's one of my 70k ones I use their 25,000 oil.
Sure beats changing the oil in 3 trucks every 3-4 weeks like I used to several years ago before I started the synthetic.
I have sold many vehicles with 2-3-400+k on them and most are still driving around somewhere. I also figure why pay for a synthetic but change your oil at less miles, if you are going synthetic buy the long mile stuff and go the miles.
They buy the base stock/s from a distiller, add pack from another source, then blend the base stock/s & add pack to come by their finished product.
Amsoil is one of those blenders, so how does one know who's basestock/s the blenders are using, at any given point in time????
Does it make any difference, I mean if the basestock is a given type, made to the same specification, then what difference does it make who cooked up the base stock or add pack????
Seems to me we're left with depending on the reputation of the blender buying good stuff & his need to make a buck, while trying to stay out of trouble with his product!!!!
So if Motorcraft sends it's lubrication specifications for out for bid & the low bidder gets it, what dfference is that from a blender doing the same thing for his base stocks & add pack????
Seems to me, unless we buy a brand name product from a distller, at any given point in time, we really don't know who made the base stock or add pack for the lube we just bought!!!!
Your Motocraft may be Sunoco one year and Quaker the next. They both would meet specs (which most any quality oil would).
Each oil has a formula, various companies use various additives to reach the same spec. Some will do some things better and some won't.
When you say that they all use the same base stocks you might be right, it's which ones in what quantities that matters. kind of like different cooks in the same kitchen, one meal will be better.
FYI:
I was looking for an article I read in the ASE news a few months back. It was a engine on a stand test with "cheap" oil versus current oil specs (no brand mentioned). They pointed out that the cheap oil had a spec (SC I think) which was state of the art 1935 spec.
One engine with current spec oil was ran side by side with one using "bargain" oil (think convenience store or auto parts store house brands, meets minimum specs).
The "bargain" oil engine lost oil pressure and did an auto shutdown after 160-70 hours. It had so much sludge in it clogged the pickup screen....Yeeiiks.







