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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 05:23 PM
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Wiring Help

I just replaced the under dash wiring harness on my '56 F100. The harness I bought from Sac. Vintage Ford is really nice. There are three things that didn't come with it and I need some help. First the heater wires weren't part of the kit and I don't know where to hook up the power for the heater motor from the under dash switch. Second, I need to find a power source for the radio and although I don't think I will ever use it, the lighter as well. There is an accessory terminal on the ignition switch but that's where the wiper motor gets it's juice. Where can I hook up these three accessories. I'm making progress but it's slow.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by seawulff
I just replaced the under dash wiring harness on my '56 F100. The harness I bought from Sac. Vintage Ford is really nice. There are three things that didn't come with it and I need some help. First the heater wires weren't part of the kit and I don't know where to hook up the power for the heater motor from the under dash switch. Second, I need to find a power source for the radio and although I don't think I will ever use it, the lighter as well. There is an accessory terminal on the ignition switch but that's where the wiper motor gets it's juice. Where can I hook up these three accessories. I'm making progress but it's slow.
The heater requires a lot of current so use a 20 Amp fuse and run it from the fuse box if you have one with 12 gauge wire, or put in an inline fuse. Find a source that is hot only when the switch is in the 'on' position. Most lighters are not fused so you can run a 12 gauge wire from any source that is hot with switch on or off. I like to run mine from a source that is always hot so the lighter outlet can be used when the engine is not running and the switch is off. If you have a newer radio it requires very little current and you can use a 16 gauge wire with a 3-5 Amp fuse. I like to power mine from a source that is always hot so that I can listen to the radio without having the switch on, but it can be wired in either way. If you have an older tube type radio you need a 14 gauge wire and probably a 10 Amp fuse.

Vern
 

Last edited by GreatNorthWoods; Nov 30, 2005 at 07:59 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 06:31 PM
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I'd suggest running one auxilliary accessory feed off the ignition switch. Use 12 ga STRANDED wire with a 20 A inline fuse to feed a small terminal block (available at any Radio Shack) attach it under the dash in any convenient place where it's unlikely to have any metal come in contact with it. Attach the wire to an end terminal and use the metal jumpers to feed down the line. Attach each accessory to one of the terminal screws with a ring or u shaped terminal and put an inline fuse in each line as was suggested. Much neater and less likely to cause later problems than trying to put a handfull of wires on the back of the switch.
Run your lighter feed off the battery terminal of the switch if you want it hot all the time.
 

Last edited by AXracer; Nov 30, 2005 at 06:33 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 09:43 PM
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Is it safe to run a wire from the ACC pole on the ignition switch to all those accessories(radio, heater, lighter) since I don't have a separate fuse box. I could run the radio and the lighter from the BATT pole on the ignition which would make them always hot. Thanks for the help.

Chris
 
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Old Dec 1, 2005 | 10:02 PM
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Yes, but use an inline fuse in the feed wire. That's the same as having a fuse box, they just aren't all in one place.
I believe I have an extra small fuse panel (6 fuses IIRC) at home that would work for you, but I won't be able to look for it until Sunday.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 02:02 PM
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Thanks, but I'm not sure I know how to hook it up.

Chris
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 02:47 PM
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It's easier than running wires with inlines. One feed to the fuse block and a line to each item off a fuse. I can give you very easy to follow directions.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2005 | 04:57 PM
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I would not run the heater from the accessory position. You can not get heat unless the engine is running, and, if left on, it will quickly drain the battery.

Also, the lighter is a high current device - can be as much as 30 amps. That is why it is not run through the ignition switch in stock applications. I would use heavy wires from any battery source.

Of course, in today's world it is more apt to be used as a power outlet for your phone or laptop computer. In that case it would not hurt to use smaller wires switched by the ignition switch, but I would not install the lighter in the socket - (just use the socket as an aux. power source.)
 
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