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Ok, this isn't for a Ford truck...but it is a Ford 6 question, thought maybe some of the 6cyl guru's on here might be able to help. Have an old 6cyl Falcon Futura, 1963 vintage. Has the 170-6 in it. Had a rocker arm seize up. While messing with it, decided to try and get a valve job done on it. YIKES!!!!!
The local places are quoting $500-600 to redo the head!! Of course the original est was half that or less. Been looking around on-line for reconditioned heads for the 170, but not having much luck. Have heard that the 200-6 head is interchangeable and have found some reasonably priced reconditioned heads for a '63-'71 200. Before I go and order them, just wanted to be sure they would indeed fit the 170 block. When I asked the headshop, they didn't answer the question directly, just wanted me to send them the 170 head and they would redo that one at a cost of about $150 more than the 200 head that was already done....?!??
200c.i.er heads Will indeed interchange marvelously w/ the 170c.i.er head.
I did just the Opposit of that myself on a '64 Futura that I drove in College, by mounting a 170c.i.er head on a '66 200c.i.er & that "Olde Girl" did some head turning done up that way, they never new what kicked their collective *****.
A.K. Miller was Fords Inline Guru & did this all the time.
He even did a slew w/ that 170c.i.er head on some Seriously built 200c.i.ers, converted them to propane, then Turbo or Supercharged them. He then started seriously spanking just about any & all comers w/ them @ Drag Strips & in Light to Light Street Duells.
I recommend that you upgrade to a 200 or 250. You'll get more power and they are smoother than the 170. The 200 and 250s have 7 main bearings. The 170 only has 5 main bearings. The more main bearings = smoother engine.
I do valve jobs and port work cant figure were the cost to do a 170 head is so high unless every part in the head is toast and needs every bolt hole helicoiled and all new bronze valve guides
TUrbo2256...... Original estimate was $300, which was to include decking the head, replacing seats with no-lead compatable seats, replace guides/seals, grind valves. SUpposedly would have been in the $180 range if the original seats were left in. Once they got the head, they decided that they wanted to replace everyvalve, valve spring, keper, etc......and the price went to almost $600!!!!
I had found reconditioned 170 long blocks on line for $700!! Told them thanks, but no thanks and sent my son to pick it up. The seats and valves in the head don't look bad to me, so I am thinking of doing it myself, just leaving the old "leaded gas" seats in it and foregoing getting it decked.
I have a set of 351w heads that were run on leaded gas for years then put them on a 84 Mustang after doing a compitition valve job ran them for 160,000 miles with no problems. Running them with lead seasons them and usualy run fine
There just aren't that many pristine one's left any more. It wasn't rare THEN, but it is very rare now. I have a 63 Ranchero my father-in-law and I keep swapping back and forth.
The last time I had that work done on a head it was about 250-300, but that was 10 years ago, and that was for EACH head on an FE block. I still have one of the valves that was pulled out, and it was grooved about 2/3 of the way back to the center of the valve. ;^)
144/170 were 5-main from 60-65. '66 on up were 7-main just like the 200's. But I agree, 200-250 were much smoother engines. Personally, I would leave it bone stock since it has survived this long that way.
Last edited by wrkhrs6; Dec 6, 2005 at 04:54 AM.
Reason: One more thing..
The combustion chambers on the 200's head are larger than the chambers in the 170 head. Putting a 200 head on a 170 will lower the compression ratio (not a good thing). Swapping heads the other way, 170 head on 200 engine, will raise the compression ratio, as a previous posted alluded to.
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