You probably won't NEED new brake lines but check your front lines very carefully when you do the lift to make sure they won't wind up being too short. Easy fix if they aren't long enough is to remove the rivets from the brackets that hold the lines in place and move them down a little, then bolt them in place. If you want a kit with rear springs go to www.ntwonline.com and check out their lift kits. Skyjacker has one for about $650 with front and rear springs and I believe shocks. I don't remember what else comes with it. Personally I like Skyjacker springs a lot better than Rough Country (think they ride much smoother) but the kit you linked is not a bad deal. You'd just want to do a shackle flip out back or buy seperate lift springs for the rear. I do believe you'll need the drop pitman arm to make it work properly. Also, maybe someone can chime in, I'm not sure about this but do you have a sway bar on your front axle? Maybe someone knows if you'll need any kind of extension arms for it. I got rid of my bars all together but if you do have one (front or back) and want to retain it you might need to get something figured out there.

Never trust a kit that claims to have EVERYTHING. It seems you'll always come across one or two oddball things at the last minute that you need. Btw, I know the rough country kit has C-bushings. It might be a good idea to go through ALL the front end bushings while you do the lift and replace them. It'll really tighten things up in your front end.

 

Yeah, they can be a real can of worms. I don't have swaybars, and it drives fine. I also put on an entire poly kit, which is more money. For a 4" kit, yes, I believe that steering upgrades would be mandatory. Like I said, mine is adjusted out as far as I can safely go with 3".

 

I bought the 4" Skyjacker "lift system" not the kit. I got it from National Tire and Wheel in West Virginia. It actually came with everything except the big fat guy to swing the hammer to knock out the old rear leaf springs, it even came with all new bushings, front and rear springs (no blocks), shocks, u-bolts, hardware, the only things I needed to buy to go with it, were a 4" dropped pitman arm and a 4" drop bracket for the stock drag link. Very impressed with Skyjacker, The system is more money, but well worth it for the results.

 

That's the company I linked above (www.ntwonline.com). I've been very impressed with their service and prices.

 

If I just bought a leveling kit. Would that be enough to clear the 33's? Or would it still hit with flex? What all would need to be changed if I just leveled it?


Sorry to keep this thread going, just checking out my options.

Thanks,

Kyle

 

I was looking at your gallery and I would definitely do a shackle flip. It looks much easier than I thought.


But, now it seems to come down to the steering issue. Where can I get all parts to convert to 78/79 steering? Is there a cheap way to obtain them?


Also, I'd still like thoughts on the leveling kit.

Thanks,

Kyle

 

Not sure about the leveling kit. Sounds like just new front coils to me. May be cheap, but cost more in the end.

I have a question about steering for people like Ivan and Kubota (I think) Are you guys familiar with GM 1 ton tie rod end steering system? If so, can you just redrill a stock pitman arm, and dana 44 knuckles to accept it? I got to thinking that for the money that buying 78-79 steering parts would cost, maybe this swap would be more feasable in the end. Also, where can somebody buy the tapered drill bit to redrill the stuff? Finally, can the tops of the knuckles be drilled, or would it have to be from the bottom?

 

I'm using GM TRE's on my drag link but my tie rod is stock. I'm not sure if you're talking about using them for drag link or tie rod or both. A lot of guys flip the stock Ford tie rod to the top of the knuckles to keep it out of harms way so I don't see why you couldn't do this with the GM TRE's and drill/taper from the top. You need a tapered reamer which you can sometimes find on ebay (I got mine there). Otherwise your best bet might be to check with a local machine shop and if they have one maybe you can borrow it if you leave a deposit. They can be quite pricey to buy new. Anyway, with mine I just reamed the pitman arm and the steering arm and it all bolted right up. If I ever munch my tie rod I'll build a new one and mount it above the knuckles instead of below. I'll just ream the holes from the top rather than the bottom. GM TRE's are a larger diameter than Ford's so you need to open them up even if you already have a tapered hole.

It just occurred to me that I'm rambling so if that doesn't make sense let me know and I'll see if I can clarify.

 

Ivan: Cool info.. I think I'll have to do the crosslink steering mod you did eventually. I'm going for big flex so ..

Good info on the tie rod too.. I'll probably run mine as is until either an end goes or it gets screwed up.

As for lockers and spools.. personally I see no problem spooling the front, so long as you realize the implications. On the street it's not a big deal cause you can just turn the hubs out. If you don't want them both locked, just put in one hub. Offroad though you can lock it all up.

I'd put a locker in the rear though as otherwise you're gonna have real fun on the street and you can't turn it off.

 

Spooled or welded front ends put a lot more stress on the shafts and u-joints than an open front end. The reason I don't recommend spooling a front end for most people is that if the axle components aren't upgraded you'll be breaking a lot of stuff, especially with a D44 front. Going straight is no big deal, it's turning while locked that tears stuff up.

 

Do you have any part #s for the GM ends? It sounds like a good idea since you have to drill no matter what. Also, what do you think would be good material for the tie rod?

 

Take a look at this pic from my gallery, the page will have the part numbers I used: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=66499&width=0

Personally I'll only use DOM for steering components. Some people use pipe but I just don't trust it. I don't know how the D44 is setup but check how much clearance you'll have between the tie rod and the diff cover. On the D60 the stock tie rod has a bend to allow it to clear the diff cover. A straight tie rod can be VERY close or may hit depending on where your steering stops are set. Again, don't know if this is an issue on D44's but it is on D60's.

 

Would this kit be alright? http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...k_bushings.htm

I decided I wasn't going to run any bigger than 33's b/c I do not want to have to worry about correcting gearing and it does alright now. I don't think I'd have to change anything. Would I? What do you guys think? Then maybe remove rear blocks and do a shackle flip and call it good.

Thanks,

Kyle

 

Yeah, that would work, but you would still need longer shocks to get the most out of your suspension's flex. For a budget lift, your idea is pretty good. I think with the shackle flip, you can totally eliminate the stock block, too.

 

So if i'm going to put a 6" suspension lift on my F250, would the 6" skyjacker kit from NTW be the best. It looks like the kit doesn't have anything for the back, it must have rear blocks but that seems imposible to have 6" rear blocks. I can keep them out and do a shackle flip right (could i just flip it or would i need to get a hanger, where do you get the hangers)? The only things left to get would be the drop pitman arm and drag link and both are necessary correct (no way to fab a drag link)? This would run me 940 with shocks, pitman arm, drag link, and kit. Anyone get this kit yet.
thanks
brian