Few ?'s
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2005
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Few ?'s
I have been cruisin around these forums as i found myself a cheap(er) idi 7.3. I had a few questions though. After searching for a while I found that cavitation seemed to be a pretty big problem. The seller I am working with states the truck doesnt' smoke and runs strong. MY question was, do all 7.3 idi's eventually get cavitation, or was it a certain date production run range or what....Truck has ~250,000 on the odo. Can I expect much more? How do I set the truck to start...I have searched around and found you need to 'set' the pedal but how? Push it to the floor then release and start? Does that keep it idled up for warm up? After long hard runs do I need to let things cool down like with a turbo diesel or can I just leave it set? What kind of fuel mileage can I expect?? Thanks and sorry for all the questions, I'm just a bit confused.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
with 250k miles, i think it is safe to assume the truck has had coolant conditioner added and checked each year to prevent cavatation.
to start, there are all diferent recomendations for pedal placement, but i have found the best way is to full throttle it, and when it starts, let off. i have been doing it this way for 17 years and no problems. in the cold, i will crank for 5 seconds, then recycle the glo-plugs. on the second turn of the key it fires rite up. this approach has worked down to -5º
as for life left in the motor, i have seen 400k+ mileage. the weak point is the auto trans. they only last about 150-200k miles
to start, there are all diferent recomendations for pedal placement, but i have found the best way is to full throttle it, and when it starts, let off. i have been doing it this way for 17 years and no problems. in the cold, i will crank for 5 seconds, then recycle the glo-plugs. on the second turn of the key it fires rite up. this approach has worked down to -5º
as for life left in the motor, i have seen 400k+ mileage. the weak point is the auto trans. they only last about 150-200k miles
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The truck is a 5spd manual, so I don't think the transmission will be the first to go.... As for preventing cavitation when it's in my hands, what should i do if anything? What kind of fuel mileage can I expect? thanks again
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Joined: Apr 2005
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Depends on which auto, the C6 is a great tranny, the E4OD is junk. Since you're looking at manual you have no worries.
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
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Fuel mileage can vary greatly depending on how you drive. At a steady 55mph cruise my truck (auto trans and 4.10 gears) gets 21mpg, it gets progressivly worse as I speed up. A load doesn't make much difference. I averaged 17mpg towing my 20' box trailer through the mountians at ~60mph. I expect your truck should be a bit more efficent than mine.
To prevent cavation, keep the coolant clean and fresh and add the proper amount of "DCA" or "SCA" (same basic thing, available from ford, international and other places too I'm sure). You can check the additive level with coolant test stripps that look very much like the litmus paper from highschool chem class.
For the record, the E4OD trans itself is quite sturdy, the programming of the software is crap, leading to too little line pressure, slipping clutches, heat and failure.
To prevent cavation, keep the coolant clean and fresh and add the proper amount of "DCA" or "SCA" (same basic thing, available from ford, international and other places too I'm sure). You can check the additive level with coolant test stripps that look very much like the litmus paper from highschool chem class.
For the record, the E4OD trans itself is quite sturdy, the programming of the software is crap, leading to too little line pressure, slipping clutches, heat and failure.
Last edited by BikePilot; Nov 26, 2005 at 07:01 PM.
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