292 Carb trouble
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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292 Carb trouble
Hi,
I have recently put in a replacement engine in my 64 F600. Runs fine but will not start without putting some gas in the carb. I am thinking that a accelerator pump may be the issue. So planning to rebuild my carb. However have never done this before. Can anyone provide any suggestions or ideas to a rookie?
Thanks
I have recently put in a replacement engine in my 64 F600. Runs fine but will not start without putting some gas in the carb. I am thinking that a accelerator pump may be the issue. So planning to rebuild my carb. However have never done this before. Can anyone provide any suggestions or ideas to a rookie?
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 351
From: Mandan, ND
The kit will (should) have an exploded view. Study your carb against the pictures to get familiar with the outside. Your work area should be clean and clear from clutter. Try to lay things out in groups as you dissemble. They're not very complicated. You'll do fine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,196
Likes: 351
From: Mandan, ND
Oh, one other thing; before final assembly, check all housing components on a flat surface. If there is any warpage, place a piece of sandpaper on the flat surface and sand the piece flat. Finally, don't overtighten the screws, this will only cause more warpage.
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
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From: Michigan
Had the same problem with my rebuilt Y-Block. Turned out there were metal shavings in the carb needle valve. Probably from the overhaul machining and not cleaned well. Cleaned it and it ran like a champ.
Carb rebuild is not hard, having said that I took mine to a cab specialty shop for the rebuild.
Fred
Carb rebuild is not hard, having said that I took mine to a cab specialty shop for the rebuild.
Fred
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From: Southern New Hampshire
With carb shops charging $75 and up for a 2bbl these days it makes sense to at least try it yourself.
Get a quality kit such as NAPA. Rust particles are a usual cause of problems but that also means pay attention to the complete fuel system right back to the tank. Otherwise you will be just doing it over again. Install an in line fuel filter, again a quality one.
Get a quality kit such as NAPA. Rust particles are a usual cause of problems but that also means pay attention to the complete fuel system right back to the tank. Otherwise you will be just doing it over again. Install an in line fuel filter, again a quality one.
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Junior User
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Well I picked up the NAPA rebuild kit. It does include an instruction sheet with a diagram. A little background. This truck had been in storage for about 15 years. So I have removed the fuel tank and cleaned it. Also the fuel line had to be replaced since it was plugged. At that time, I installed an inline fuel filter. So I am hoping that with this rebuild the problem should be gone.
The next project for me will be the brakes (only the parking brake works at this time). The booster (located under the driver floor board) was also bad. I am afraid that my bleeders and wheel cyclinders may not be good. So this could be a big job.
Thanks for all the input.
The next project for me will be the brakes (only the parking brake works at this time). The booster (located under the driver floor board) was also bad. I am afraid that my bleeders and wheel cyclinders may not be good. So this could be a big job.
Thanks for all the input.