Still Struggling
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Well given the fact it sometimes clears up & runs ok for a short time & the engine only has 30K on it, seems to me it's a good canidate for a sticking valve.
So maybe if this is deposit related, this engine would be a good canidate for some "SeaFoam" or "Marvel Oil".
Say some in the crankcase, some in the gas tank & see how it responds.
If it's varnish on the valve stems, or carbon deposits on the valve seats, maybe this could remove enough to get it to a point of being able to run it on the interstate & clean it up some more.
Of course if it's a burned valve, or bent valve stem, that won't help. Only replacement is going to do it!!!!
SeaFoam & Marvel Oil don't cost much though, $3-$4 in my area, might be worth a try, if he thinks deposits may be the problem.
So maybe if this is deposit related, this engine would be a good canidate for some "SeaFoam" or "Marvel Oil".
Say some in the crankcase, some in the gas tank & see how it responds.
If it's varnish on the valve stems, or carbon deposits on the valve seats, maybe this could remove enough to get it to a point of being able to run it on the interstate & clean it up some more.
Of course if it's a burned valve, or bent valve stem, that won't help. Only replacement is going to do it!!!!
SeaFoam & Marvel Oil don't cost much though, $3-$4 in my area, might be worth a try, if he thinks deposits may be the problem.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: South Texas
How would a valve get burned anyhow? Could it have happened when the TFI module went bad? I suppose it was running in rich after that, it certainly was bad. Then it got better after I replaced the module and got worse over time again. Could it be a deposit problem? I suppose it couldn't hurt to try the cleaning method. Would I just pour some stuff in and let it idle for a good while, then drive it if it improves? I had to turn the idle screw up some just to move it around and into my garage yesterday. It did run better after I turned up the idle, if that matters. From the compression test it appears that only the first cylinder is having a problem, and the popping is only in the exhaust so it's only that one valve, correct? Could there be a deposit problem on one valve?
This has been a real pain, but I really appreciate everyone's help and advice. I've really learned alot from everyone on this board.
This has been a real pain, but I really appreciate everyone's help and advice. I've really learned alot from everyone on this board.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
If you don't have any spit back through the trottle body, but only in the exhaust, then it's likely a exhaust valve problem.
Do you have any unusual noise from the top side of the engine around the #1 valve train????
The use rate on Marvel Oil is 0.4 oz per gallon of gas & one qt as a replacement for one qt of oil, in the crank case.
The SeaFoam is used at a treat rate of 1 oz per gallon of gas & 1.5 oz per qt of oil.
I think I'd try the Seafoam in the gas & crankcase first & see if there is any change for the good.
If not, it's not likely a deposit problem.
If does some good & you think it's a deposit problem, then something else is likely wrong too.
Like a valve stem seal leaking oil & dirtying up things, or maybe you've run a sub spec lube in the crank case, or maybe the engine was run hot, or lean for some time.
Running a lean air fuel mixture can burn the valves as well as too much timing advance, or the valve lash too tight for some reason, even too high a octane gas.
You havn't been running 115/145 octane avgas in it have you???? LOL
Don't laugh, I know a guy that did it in his Chevy, roasted that puppy's valves in no time!!!! LOL
Do you have any unusual noise from the top side of the engine around the #1 valve train????
The use rate on Marvel Oil is 0.4 oz per gallon of gas & one qt as a replacement for one qt of oil, in the crank case.
The SeaFoam is used at a treat rate of 1 oz per gallon of gas & 1.5 oz per qt of oil.
I think I'd try the Seafoam in the gas & crankcase first & see if there is any change for the good.
If not, it's not likely a deposit problem.
If does some good & you think it's a deposit problem, then something else is likely wrong too.
Like a valve stem seal leaking oil & dirtying up things, or maybe you've run a sub spec lube in the crank case, or maybe the engine was run hot, or lean for some time.
Running a lean air fuel mixture can burn the valves as well as too much timing advance, or the valve lash too tight for some reason, even too high a octane gas.
You havn't been running 115/145 octane avgas in it have you???? LOL
Don't laugh, I know a guy that did it in his Chevy, roasted that puppy's valves in no time!!!! LOL
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: South Texas
An Update
I finally got finished getting the head off and ran it by a machine shop the other day. After a bit of examination cracks were discovered. I went by today to take a look and sure enough there were three cracks, both around the second and third exhaust valve. Each seal area had a small crack and the third cylinder had a crack going from the valve seat to the spark plug hole.
The odd thing is that from my compression test I figured that the first cylinder valves were the problem (compression was only 100). But it turns out the problems were elsewhere.
What is even stranger is that this damage was not caused by overheating, because it hasn't overheated. Could all this damage have been caused by there being too much fuel being used when my ignition module went bad? Whatever the case, I'm now in search of a good rebuilt head. Anyone know any good suppliers I can order from?
The odd thing is that from my compression test I figured that the first cylinder valves were the problem (compression was only 100). But it turns out the problems were elsewhere.
What is even stranger is that this damage was not caused by overheating, because it hasn't overheated. Could all this damage have been caused by there being too much fuel being used when my ignition module went bad? Whatever the case, I'm now in search of a good rebuilt head. Anyone know any good suppliers I can order from?
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
Originally Posted by irishguyincc
Would that be a safe assumption based on the evidence?
Since it's looking like I'm gonna have to tear off the head I'm looking for some advice on gaskets and...a good place to purchase a rebuilt head.
Also, is it necessary to drain the coolant from the radiator, or can I just drain the block? Does anyone know where exactly the block drain is located on my 2.3?
Since it's looking like I'm gonna have to tear off the head I'm looking for some advice on gaskets and...a good place to purchase a rebuilt head.
Also, is it necessary to drain the coolant from the radiator, or can I just drain the block? Does anyone know where exactly the block drain is located on my 2.3?
#2Q: I'd only suggest you look in your "yellow pages" for local auto parts stores & engine rebuild shops.... You don't want to pay to the SHIPPING on a rebuilt cylinder head!
#3Q: It is usually WAY simplier & easier to drain the coolant down using the radiator drain petcock or by removing the lower radiator hose rather than trying to get to and loosen the block drain plugs.
GOOD LUCK!
BarnieTrk
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