I just pulled a 64 dual wheel flat bed from the woods and I am hunting info for it, first off it is a v8 and was drove to its resting spot only to take off the flat bed that was on it and switch beds about 10 years ago, the husband passed away before anything was done and hasnt been started or moved since then, I have messed around with it and have it atleast turning over and has about 45 psi oil pressure cold while cranking very slowly before the starter shot craps which leads me to my first of many question in up coming weeks. How do I decode the engine casting number or better yet can anyone out there do it for me..casting number is as followed C2AE 6015
I have the title but on the title it has a 11 digit vin instead of the common 17 digit number..I would like to find out what engine it has in it so I can try and pick up a new starter to see if I can ger her running. I rebuilt the carb and plan on changing the oil as soon as I fiure out what type of filter it takes.

She is a little rough but still alot to work with and very solid. I think it has had some mods because it has a dual master cylinder that is vacuum boosted

 

tg, Does it have an exhaust manifold that comes from one side to the other across the front?? It should have, and that would be a Y block if it is a V8. or 223 for an I6.
Oil pressure sounds fine. Crank it over with the sparkplugs out on a freshly charged battery to get the oil going. Change the oil and filter, put on a new coil, plug wires, plugs, and points, and you should be able to drive it out.

Be careful until you have a grip on the brakes. Drums could be stuck, very spongy, or none at all. Keep a clear path in front of you.

John

 

it does have the exhaust that crosses over to the passanger side, so what would I tell the parts guy the engine is?

The rear driver side wheels are locked solid.

I was able to drag it out and the other wheels popped loose

 

i believe the c2ae is a 292 y block

 

You have a great Truck ! I still have one (although the cab got chushed in an ice storm). As stated above you should have the Y block 292 as you describe it. Just a reminder if you are not aware of this - the Y block has the same firing order as the Flathead if you look in some books they say "all" Ford V8 firing orders are the same in 60-70's - they don't mention the Y block being different.
15486372 Y block

 

thanks for the info! I am going to go today to the parts store to see if they might have one laying around on the shelf, I have a few different parts stores to choose from, are there any recommendations that I might have better luck chasing this starter down?

 

If they can get one, it will probably be a special order only type deal.

 

I ended up taking the starter by the local altenator and starter re-builder guy and he rebuilt it for 50 bucks with new brushes and re-welded one of the windings changed out the bearings. I didnt think that was to bad a price as long as it works. the parts store said it would be atleast 85 bucks for a rebuild and a few days for me to get it

 

well installed the starter and still it cranks slowly then locks up, I checked the starter on the bench and it turns nicely but who can tell when it gets in the truck. It makes alot of rackett when turning over and it doesnt turn over very fast. Iturned the engine over by hand with a breaker bar and it doesnt seem to turn too easily so I am wondering what to do next without tearing into the engine. The engine set without a carburator on it for a few years, I ooked inside the manifold with a light and mirror but of course I couldnt see all the way in but I am afraid I wont beable to get intake gaskets for it but I havent checked yet, was hoping to atleast get it to fire up abit before I started getting too serious with it...Any suggestions?

 

The things you guys hold back from us, while you post your turns out not to be so simple questions.

For my 2, I'd say there is rust in the bores, and I would be looking at rebuild/replace.

good luck

John

 

Are you saying its sat in weather with no carb on it for 10 years with the hood closed? or hood open?

Id get some marvel mystery oil or something through the spark plug holes and keep turning her over by hand, you need to get those cylinder walls lubed up. If that doesnt Work, Joe could very well be bang on unfortunately......

You may end up pulling the heads to see whats going on, and then just having them rebuilt while they're off anyway.

Y parts arent hard to find, I go to the carquest down the street for me, most parts come on the nightly truck from Seattle, but I have them the next day, I just try to plan ahead when working on the 62. (like the oil pan gasket I bought 3 weeks ago and still havent done )

Im still hmming and hawwing about whether to leave the Y-block in it, or build the 302 I have in the garage for it.

 

yeah the engine was without carb for awhile not sure how long but for a few years and the hood was down but not all the way. I started by squeezing oil and penatrating oil mix into the spark plug holes about a week before I started messing with it and it turned over ok, not great but ok, so I had the starter rebuilt thinking that it would really spin but it didnt> the starter was all rusted and coroded out with brush wire off so at least it wasnt a waste there. I am going to take the intake off to see im maybe a varmit has stashed something in there that might have caused a problem. but it will have to warm up a bit so I will let you guys know whats going on

 

I can get a fairly late model 302 for the truck but man wouldnt it really take quite abit to swap them. the motormounts are no where near where they would need to be

 

If it was me, I'd pass on a 302 for your truck. You said it was a dual wheel setup. 302s are great Horsepower motors, but a heavy truck like your F350 will be happier with a torqe motor like that Y block, or a later model FE block. Or, if you want to stay with small displacement, the 300 inline 6 is possably one of the most durable motors ever, and great for torque.

 

yeah I am against changing engines, I guess I am kinda old fashion about that stuff...But I do have a 302 readily available but only if it just dropped in with out all the hassle of adapting. I am going to pull the intake and have a look down in the heads and maybe get some more lube down in the cylinders maybe even pull the heads.

I agree the inline 300 is bullet proof