fuse block location
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I'm using the EZ miniature 21 circuit panel. It has tabs on the back that are supposed to fit into keyhole slots and a locking tab at the top to keep it from sliding back out. I made a 10ga mounting plate to match and bolted it to the left side of the hanging pedal frame. I can leave the panel hanging down while wiring or to check a fuse then just snap it onto the mount. I plan to bring the wires down thru inside the driver's side kick panel and out down near the frame. I plan to run all the wires in corregated tubing inside the frame out of sight. I want to keep the firewall and engine compartment as clean as possible. I saved the grommet holder from the firewall and may reuse it with a piece of closed cell neoprene foam to seal where the wires exit the cab. I would like to use a bulkhead connector, but I haven't found one I like yet.
All my relays and black boxes will live in the center console behind the head unit etc. I will use a number of wiring quick connects in there.
HR 48, you know you can remove the extra wires from the panel and reinstall them at a later time when needed?
All my relays and black boxes will live in the center console behind the head unit etc. I will use a number of wiring quick connects in there.
HR 48, you know you can remove the extra wires from the panel and reinstall them at a later time when needed?
Last edited by AXracer; Nov 22, 2005 at 12:38 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
I like blue oval's set up - it is clean and neat. Has anyone tried to make a hinged panel that will flip down for easy access? It is something I have been thinking of doing. Mount it about the same place as his.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
I considered a swing down mount, but decided the complexity was not warranted by the # of times I might want access and the snap in mount would provide similar access for the times I did and I didn't want to put any more bolts thru the firewall than absolutely necessary. My fuseblock is quite a bit smaller as well, ~ the size of a cigarette pack.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 208
From: Murfreesboro, Tennessee
This Block is from Pure Choice and will pivot down to be perpendicular with the floor for servicing and swings up and parallel with the floor when not in use. It is mounted to the left of the steering column drop.
Thread Starter
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Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,044
Likes: 10,054
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Thanks everyone! Great ideas here.
Some of the factory cars had flip down fuse blocks. I can't remember if it was Cadillac or Buick but it seems there were a few models that had the fuse block located to the left of the column on a flip down arrangement. I guess I need to head back to the wrecking yard and see how complicated it looks.
1954blueoval -- I like your bracketry, thanks for sharing the pics.
AX, I like the idea of having a bulkhead connector also. Maybe if I can't find one Ilike I'll make a coupel of seperate connectors, one for the engine harness, and one for the lights.
Ross, I don't think its the choke or throttle cable hole, its on the right side of the tranny hump. You can see it in this pic;
Thanks again,
Bobby
Some of the factory cars had flip down fuse blocks. I can't remember if it was Cadillac or Buick but it seems there were a few models that had the fuse block located to the left of the column on a flip down arrangement. I guess I need to head back to the wrecking yard and see how complicated it looks.
1954blueoval -- I like your bracketry, thanks for sharing the pics.
AX, I like the idea of having a bulkhead connector also. Maybe if I can't find one Ilike I'll make a coupel of seperate connectors, one for the engine harness, and one for the lights.
Ross, I don't think its the choke or throttle cable hole, its on the right side of the tranny hump. You can see it in this pic;
Thanks again,
Bobby
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 895
Likes: 1
From: OK
Originally Posted by AXracer
HR 48, you know you can remove the extra wires from the panel and reinstall them at a later time when needed?
Thanks for the tip though, I may try that this winter.hotrod48
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
The fuse block in our Celica flips down, and I think the one in the Miata does as well. Getting it to flip down wasn't the problem, Where to mount it cleanly was. I don't want to have to splice wires to reuse a salvaged bulkhead connector, I'd like to find a new one or one that used standard spade or pin connectors that could be switched out for new ones. The salvaged ones I've seen so far are molded around the wires, and the only new ones I've found either have too few wires (not sure how many I'll need yet, but I'm sure it will be more than the 7 in a std trailer connector) or are too light weight or very expensive. Might be able to use two trailer connectors tho. Can you get them without wires attached?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 932
Likes: 9
From: DFW, TX
Bobby,
I used the wiring harness/fuse block/bulkhead connector from a '77 Camaro with few problems. I would bet your Caddy harness is very similar. These connectors and contacts are made by Packard and parts are available from Madelectronics.com. I think GM used these components up through the early 80's anyway.
I cut a square hole on myfirewall, about 5" below the original feedthru. It's low enough that I can get to the fuse block from the inside, but high enough to keep it tucked up under the dash, out of sight. The fuse block will separate from the connector if you want to locate it away from the connector, but the wires are typically pretty short. Also, once you have seperated the engine side bulkhead connector from the interior connector, it comes apart into two sections: one for engine mounted accessories, one for lights/horn/etc.
I'll look around for pics of mine. Post pics of your fuse block and the back side, if you get a chance.
Good Luck,
Kent
I used the wiring harness/fuse block/bulkhead connector from a '77 Camaro with few problems. I would bet your Caddy harness is very similar. These connectors and contacts are made by Packard and parts are available from Madelectronics.com. I think GM used these components up through the early 80's anyway.
I cut a square hole on myfirewall, about 5" below the original feedthru. It's low enough that I can get to the fuse block from the inside, but high enough to keep it tucked up under the dash, out of sight. The fuse block will separate from the connector if you want to locate it away from the connector, but the wires are typically pretty short. Also, once you have seperated the engine side bulkhead connector from the interior connector, it comes apart into two sections: one for engine mounted accessories, one for lights/horn/etc.
I'll look around for pics of mine. Post pics of your fuse block and the back side, if you get a chance.
Good Luck,
Kent
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
I thought about hinging the fuse block before going the route I did. I had a friend who stuck his up high on the firewall with velcro. I thought it would come loose, but he has driven it all across the country with no movement. He likes it because he can pull the fuse block down to replace fuses rather than laying on his back to get to it.
Thread Starter
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Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,044
Likes: 10,054
From: Rio Rancho, NM
Kent,
I think you are right on them being Packard connectors, I think they are the Packard 56. I think I know what you are talking about, a bolt holds the interior and exterior halves together and once they are seperate then you can split the exterior connector into the two halves. GM ran the drivers side bulk head connector like that for years, once they started jeavy into computer controlled engine functions then the main engine sensor harness was just pass through wiring to eliminate any chance of faulty connections.
My fuse block ('83 Coupe DeVille???) differs from yours in that the bulkhead connector you describe is not clipped to my fuse block. My box is clipped to a large connector that is the main underdash wiring harness, very similar but not sealed for the elements. There is a huge part of that, that I will have to weed out. I'll take some pics this evening.
Thanks,
Bobby
I think you are right on them being Packard connectors, I think they are the Packard 56. I think I know what you are talking about, a bolt holds the interior and exterior halves together and once they are seperate then you can split the exterior connector into the two halves. GM ran the drivers side bulk head connector like that for years, once they started jeavy into computer controlled engine functions then the main engine sensor harness was just pass through wiring to eliminate any chance of faulty connections.
My fuse block ('83 Coupe DeVille???) differs from yours in that the bulkhead connector you describe is not clipped to my fuse block. My box is clipped to a large connector that is the main underdash wiring harness, very similar but not sealed for the elements. There is a huge part of that, that I will have to weed out. I'll take some pics this evening.
Thanks,
Bobby
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 895
Likes: 1
From: OK
Originally Posted by rogerf100
Thanks for the pics blueoval. I will be using the EZ wiring harness this winter and your mounting method looks great.
hotrod48
Last edited by hotrod48; Nov 22, 2005 at 03:33 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,958
Likes: 1
Ummm...stupid question....., but does the factory 56 wiring harness even have a fuse block? 
Mine wiring/connectors/everything has all been replaced, but its wired just like the factory. I have not seen a block yet anywhere on my truck. Maybe I am just blind or something.
Mine wiring/connectors/everything has all been replaced, but its wired just like the factory. I have not seen a block yet anywhere on my truck. Maybe I am just blind or something.