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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 07:59 AM
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Question Codes that came up?

Here another
Damn, go away for 6 months and the old girls falling apart.
As posted , my 4lt has been running rough. The codes pulled were. 116 ECT higher or lower than expected-temp was normal,
157 MAF sensor curcuit below normal voltage
536 BOO curcit failure/not actuated during KOER ( did it but came up)
538 Insufficent RPM change during KOER dynamic response test
Has anyone else had these,before I go out and purchase useless extras. My manual does not outline full details.
Dave
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:39 AM
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A lot of crazy codes comes up with a weak battery. Did you park the van for 6 months? If so, it may be worth it to disconnect the battery to clear the codes and recharge it at the same time.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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Copper
No Its been runner for the 6 months. voltage is good
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CdnSoldier
Here another
Damn, go away for 6 months and the old girls falling apart.
As posted , my 4lt has been running rough. The codes pulled were. 116 ECT higher or lower than expected-temp was normal,
157 MAF sensor curcuit below normal voltage
536 BOO curcit failure/not actuated during KOER ( did it but came up)
538 Insufficent RPM change during KOER dynamic response test
Has anyone else had these,before I go out and purchase useless extras. My manual does not outline full details.
Dave
The 538 is probably a result of the 536, so don't worry about it. The 157 MAF code has happened to me several times. Cleaning the MAF seems to make it go away. The 116 ECT code is probably for real. You may want to probe the resistance there and compare it to the table in the manual. If you don't have a table, someone here would post it eventually. I would have posted it, but I'm leaving for my OUT-laws' house right now, and won't be back until midnight.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 11:14 AM
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Copper
Thanks, I have cleaned the MAF twice. So I think, I'm have to go and buy one. I'm up on how to correct them, its just when some thing relates to the samething stumps me.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 08:24 AM
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I've redid the tests 3 times and the damn codes still come up. Voltage is good at the battery, MAF has good voltage, BOO has been set. But ? Any other ideas for the crowd. I would hate to pay 178$ for a new MAF and won't need it.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 10:13 AM
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CdnSoldier:

The MAF has 4 pins: A, B, C and D.

Unplug the connector and probe the voltage at pin A with Key-On-Engine-Off. That should be at about Battery Voltage.

Plug the connector back in and see if you can splice in a little wire onto the wire on pin D. Measure that voltage with the engine running. It should be as follows:

Engine Size Idle 30 mph 55 mph

4.0L 0.6-0.7V 1.0-1.4V 1.5-2.0V

3.0L 0.9-1.0V 1.4-2.0V 2.3-2.7V

Please note that the values may be plus or minus 20%. But if you see something greatly out of the ordinary, that should tell you that you need a new MAF.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 12:11 PM
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Thanks
The voltage you gave me is different than my Ford book. The book had .05-.08v and 1.3-1.7V. I had .07 at idle. I may just replace the damn thing. Only Ford sells it here cheap, NAPA Canada does not list it, and Canadian Tire list it for 239$. I may go and try one from the wreckers, off a new veh with the same part number for 10$. I hate the Maritimes, 20 yrs behind.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Wait, Cdnsoldier. What year is the van? It's a 4.0L, right? The values I gave you are for '93-95. If you have a newer van, it might be different.

If it reads 0.07 and your book says 0.05-0.08, I see no reason to replace it.

Also, I don't understand the reference to the Maritimes Hockey team?
 
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Old Nov 23, 2005 | 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by copper_90680
A lot of crazy codes comes up with a weak battery.
Well, give me a dope slap to the forehead. I had been doing body work on my son's car for the past two months. When things were all said and done, the battery needed a jump to start - its an old one. The CEL was illuminated and I found all sorts of odd codes. I cleared them and they did not come back (battery up to full charge by now). Now I know why. Thanks copper.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2005 | 07:36 AM
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Copper Thanks
What I meant was in the Eastern part of Canada some parts come up unavailable. IE NAPA out here does not list a MAF, or some AC parts.I lived in Ontario and all parts at even a independent were available.
But its a 94, 4lt. Only reason I was thinking to replace the MAF was I have cleared the codes twice. And the same ones come up. Cleaned the MAF, IAC, checked the BOO, wiring, Plug wires, plugs you name it I have checked it. But it still idle rough. Runs great no miss, good fuel milage 6-8 Lts/K (20-25 M/Gal).
The only real problem is the small hole in the flex pipe.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2005 | 07:53 AM
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if a MAF has became lazy/failed, usually shows up across rpm range, low heater element temp or low/slow sensor response.

IAC is my 2 cents, Ford says not cleanable-replacement only, has internal diaphram that sometimes is damaged, IAC supplies 95% of idle air-too much or too little air--idle fuel mix is off and poor
idle, what happens when you pull IAC electrical plug? no easy concise way to completely test for correct idle air flow.

small hole in flex pipe???? you mean black tube from MAF to TB, any air leak here is not good, really throws off fuel/air mix parameters

20-25 mpg in 4L indicates MAF is operating properly, how is acceleration?, fast and smooth indicates MAF is operating correctly and fuel mix is correct across air flow range.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2005 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CdnSoldier
The only real problem is the small hole in the flex pipe.
You know us engineers' recommendation. "If it moves, WD-40 it. If it doesn't move, JB-Weld it. If it leaks, RTV it."
 
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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 08:47 AM
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No the exaust flex pipe.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 10:59 AM
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The flex in the exhaust won't hurt much, but fat chance passing inspection with that.
 
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