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Need a code master on this one

  #1  
Old 11-18-2005, 05:10 PM
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Need a code master on this one

So i got my truck running pretty good, but i figured id run the codes on my truck and see what all is going on. I was wondering if anyone knew what they ment

KOEO 111
Memory Code 332
Memory Code 617
KOER 311
KOER 538
KOER 632

My neighbor told me that i should be counting how many times the check engine light turns on during the tests so here is the blinking order

1,1,3,1,5,1,7,6,2,1,3,1,5,2,7,6,3,2

I dont know if that helps but i figured it never hurts to ask
 
  #2  
Old 11-18-2005, 05:50 PM
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well you passed the KOEO test
 
  #3  
Old 11-18-2005, 05:59 PM
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go to www.fordfuelinjection.com look at codes and your answers will be there.
 
  #4  
Old 11-18-2005, 06:53 PM
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thanks slick

heres what the site said

311 - Thermactor air system inoperative (right side)
332 - EGR valve opening not detected.
617 - 1 - 2 shift error (E4OD)
632 - Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD)
538 - Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error
(it also brought me to the throttle position page which said that all the following effect the TPS )
•Throttle Cable
•Throttle Body Cleanliness
•Vacuum leaks
•Air Filter
•Air Filter to Throttle Body Duct
•Engines general condition
•Harness and wire general condition


So now my question does any of these effect the others? I mean could i fix one thing out of all this and everything would work out better?

Does this sound more like a vaccum leak or something major?

I can use all the input on this one ... I'm leaning as i go but i also dont want to replace everything when it could be something minor....

(last spring my truck just wouldnt start and they told me that it was the fuel pump so $300 later it quit again and i found it was a $15 external ignition coil)
 
  #5  
Old 11-18-2005, 09:43 PM
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regarding the egr, test the egr valve position sensor and you may also want to take the egr valve off and clean it. You can also test your throttle position sensor too with a multimeter. They tell you how to do this stuff in the haynes manual. Some of that stuff could be causing other codes.
 
  #6  
Old 11-19-2005, 07:20 PM
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Code 311 - Thermactor air system inoperable. The computer determined that for some reason the fresh air injection from the Thermactor system was not present. There are several components that make up this system. The initial component is the smog pump. The first checks I would make are the hoses and plumbing from the smog pump back to the diverter valve (behind the pass. cylinder head) and then on to the crossover pipe at the back of the heads and down to the catalytic converter. The check valves that are at the center of the cross over pipe and the top of the metal tube from the cat are often the culprits as they can and do snap in half as the get old. If the plumbing looks to be in good order we can discuss the slightly more complicated aspects of the system. The diverter valve also has two vacuum lines running to it. Make certain they are in place and intact. (Computer needs to be able to control the flow of fresh air by the Thermactor system).

Code 332 - Insufficient EGR flow detected. Atop the EGR valve there is a sensor called the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor. It detects movement of the pintle iside the EGR valve. You can apply vacuum to the vacuum barb on the EGR valve and observe through the holes in the casting whether the valve is moving or not. It may just be dirty which requires some careful scrubbing and NO SOLVENTS. Otherwise, if the EGR valve is functioning and moving when vacuum is applied, the EVP sensor is suspect and the electrical connections to it should be checked first. (Computer needs to know the EGR valve position for emissions control).

Code 617 - 1-2 shift error. IF this code persists and you have noticed shift problems while driving, its going to be a shift servo inside the E4OD tha has failed. (Computer needs to control when the tranny is shifting).

Code 632 - OD cancel switch not changing state. During the KOER test, AFTER the initial recognition code is generated, the brake pedal must be applied, the OD switch must be turned off and then back on and finally the "goose" test must be performed. This code is generated when the person performing the KOER test fails to deactivate and reactivate the OD cancel switch at the end of the shift lever. It does NOT indicate a problem unless the switch WAS INDEED deactivated and reactivated and the code still came up. (Computer needs to know if the tranny is in OD or not).

Code 538 - Insufficient RPM change during dynamic response test. This is another code generated when the dynamic response or "goose" test as some refer to it is not performed during the KOER test. The KOER test requires that after a certain length of time the throttle be opened to bring the idle above 2000 rpm for a short period of time. If the dynamic response test is not performed or the rpm's do not peak ABOVE 2000 rpm's this code will be generated. (Computer needs to compare changes in sensor readings at different RPM's to determine system operation and efficiency).

The KOEO Code 111 is nothing to worry about it indicates the system is fine with the engine not running. The real concern here would be the Thermactor, EGR, and shift error codes. The other codes are usually a misperformed KOER test. If you have no shift problems with the truck it could be an anomoly caused by a combination of other codes. The Thermactor system is simple enough to trace and the EGR can be cleaned or replaced along with the EVP sensor. These two systems generate changes to fuel-air ratios and to oxygen levels in the exhaust which will affect other sensors and operations within the engine. If you want more specific repair and troubleshooting techniques, drop me a line.
 

Last edited by greystreak92; 11-19-2005 at 07:31 PM.
  #7  
Old 02-27-2011, 09:04 AM
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I am really amazed at the vast knowledge and help that you provided the newjohndeere in regards to his smog system (oops! Thermactor system) problem. Your information also benefited me immensely because I too was at a stand still with the varies problems that can occur in a ford f250 5.8L engine thermactor system components. Thanks for the information and you expertise.
 
  #8  
Old 03-21-2011, 07:46 PM
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I have had problems with my EGR in the past as well on my 1994 5.8l F150. For me it turned out to be a old broken hard air line the first time. This time around i ran the KOEO test and passed, then ran the KOER test and came up with three codes, which kinda bug me a bit.

The first is 213 Spout Circuit open
It is closed i check it, and when i pull the jumper off i can tell a difference in the timing change, i have read others who have replaced the wire and all that, and eventually through troubleshooting bought a new ECM and still having trouble, i will most likely ask my cousin if he has a spare ecm i can plug in and see before i leap and buy.

The second is 311 Thermactor air system/fault during engine run self test
According to the posts to this blog 311 must be the right side and 312 is the left, which is helpful, but i still have no clue where to start locating a spot to begin my troubleshooting. But i will most likely jsut visually inspect all the ducting and such as GreyStreak 92 said.

The third, which is the second time for me, Is the EGR valve one, good old number 332, second time pulling the code for me, so i will tell the story. I went out and bought the EGR valve, and it did not fix it, and it was not cheap. That was the first time around. I was in the military for 3 years at that point, and wasnt using the truck, it was sitting at moms house then at cousins house. Well i said crap, did a lil research and realized i didnt do any troubleshooting at all, so i checked the lines, and low and behold the line from the egr valve was melted, and so was a A/C air line to switch from defrost to vent and what not, so they were replaced and the problem solved. Two years later here i am again. I went ahead and bought a pretty nice set of tools to check the integrity of my air lines, and they were not the cause. However i did replace the egr solenoid as it was making a odd hissing sound when i applied a load to it, and still it did not solve the problem. so here i am, i have not troubleshot the egr evp yet, and most likely will look up the voltage requirements for it now. Well thanks again.
 
  #9  
Old 03-21-2011, 08:02 PM
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Cool Need a code master: EGR Valve

Mathew: I recently had all kinds of problems with my f250 with the 5.8L Windsor engine. I bought a new EGR Valve and tube and installed both. To my surprise, I kept getting a code with a readout of egr valve not up to... I had my ford mechanic check it out for me and he concluded that the egr valve I purchased at O'Reilly Auto Parts was "NOT COMPATIBLE' with my ford engine etc. He directed me to go to the Ford Dealer and purchase one manufactured for Ford to Ford Specs. It might have cost me just a tad more that I paid at the other shop, but it worked and still is and not setting codes at all. What blessing. There are so many sensors, solenoids and switches and fusible links on our trucks that make our job a lay persons difficult. I have been studing my ford truck literature, repair manuals at the library, asking a million questions and still learning. Sometimes I feel like buying a brand new F250 with all the up-to-date technology, but they are so darn expensive and I don't feel like being in debt for the rest of my life. So, fixing and learning I shall continue. I hope that you find peace with your project. Peter
 
  #10  
Old 03-21-2011, 08:28 PM
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Code 213 - has a host of possible meanings. The first being as you stated, SPOUT circuit open. Yours obviously is not and you noted the change when you pull the shorting plug. So, this could be an intermittent problem which would need to be troubleshot by clearing Codes and checking to see if it returned. If not, then you may have wiring with sketchy connections. If Code 213 returns immediately, you may have a partial TFI/ICM (grey plastic module on the driver's inner fender in a heat sink between the power distro and the hood spring) issue. The SPOUT signal runs through it before getting all the way back to the ECM. My suggestion would be to replace the TFI/ICM if you still have Code 213 after clearing and retesting and cannot find any obvious wiring faults.

Code 311 - as stated in my original post. However, I would suggest making certain that this code is cleared/corrected before assuming Code 332 is still a problem. One can trigger another if the system is off due to lack of air injection.

Code 332 - again, as described in the original post but do keep in mind that the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor must send a minimum voltage of 0.29 VDC back to the ECM when the valve is fully closed.

Check first for reference voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire at the EVP sensor. With the key ON, the voltage should be approximately +5 VDC. If this voltage is below about +4.75 VDC inspect the wiring at the connection and back to PIN 26 of the ECM.

If the voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire is good then check the voltage with the key ON and the engine OFF at the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire. The MINIMUM allowable voltage at this wire is 0.29 VDC with the EVP sensor connected and no vacuum to the EGR valve. If the voltage is below 0.29 VDC, replace the EVP sensor.
 
  #11  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:19 PM
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Need a Code Master.....

I see that the master is on. Follow his instructions. Thanks Pete
 
  #12  
Old 03-21-2011, 11:41 PM
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Matthew,

I missed that this was your first post... Welcome to FTE and the Big Bronco Forum. Here's hoping the information we have drummed up so far has been helpful. Keep us posted as to your progress.
 
  #13  
Old 03-23-2011, 09:30 AM
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Talking


Code 332 - again, as described in the original post but do keep in mind that the EVP (EGR Valve Position) sensor must send a minimum voltage of 0.29 VDC back to the ECM when the valve is fully closed.

Check first for reference voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire at the EVP sensor. With the key ON, the voltage should be approximately +5 VDC. If this voltage is below about +4.75 VDC inspect the wiring at the connection and back to PIN 26 of the ECM.

If the voltage at the BROWN/WHITE wire is good then check the voltage with the key ON and the engine OFF at the BROWN/LT. GREEN wire. The MINIMUM allowable voltage at this wire is 0.29 VDC with the EVP sensor connected and no vacuum to the EGR valve. If the voltage is below 0.29 VDC, replace the EVP sensor.
Yes, i have done testing, applied vaccum, and checked continuity and voltage of the evp sensor.
Voltage came back good enough 12volts at the sensor.
However vaccum test came back iffie. Now it could be wrong but according to haynes manual, when 20Hg in of vac is applied to the evp sensor then the Ohms reading should be at about 100. I applied 10 Hg in of pressure and worked up to 20, and the Ohms reading went from about 300Hg in to 430 Hg in, is that normal or is haynes correct?
 
  #14  
Old 03-24-2011, 02:54 AM
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There should not be 12 volts at any sensor EVER. None of the sensors are fed battery voltage. +5 VDC is the most you should EVER find at any sensor.
 
  #15  
Old 04-05-2011, 12:15 PM
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Yup well the EVP was bad ahahaha. So go figure, replaced egr and evp and quite a few lines, didnt take long to track down, i backburnered it for the longest time about 3 weeks, money issues. so all good now.
 

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