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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 10:45 PM
  #1  
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4wd conversion

One of the biggest problems that has been mentioned on this forum for converting a 2wd to 4wd is that the frames are radically different forward of the cab. the main problem being that the future differential wants to share space with the 2wd engine crossmember. Does anyone know how much clearance there is between the top of a 460 and the bottom of the hood? Perhaps one could fab up engine mounts to lift the motor in an effort to raise the crossmember? it seems that the motor should move up a ways, especially with body spacers. Any objections?
-kit
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 10:47 PM
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if you run a body lift you can raise it maybe an extra .5 inch over the amount of body lift...
 
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Old Nov 16, 2005 | 10:51 PM
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Alright thanks. 3.5" would be a good help with a 6.5" lift i bet. I bet i could design a more low profile crossmember thats stronger too. i'll put up stuff if i do.
-kit
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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Lifting an engine that heavy 3-3.5 inches will result in some ugly handling

the 4x4 conversion will clear the engine but not the crossmember
fab a new one or remove one from a 4x4 frame weld it in then remove the crossmember under the engine and strengthen the motor mount area
that is the easy part.
if this sounds tough you should go buy a new truck
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 12:22 PM
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Lifting the engine up will also create clearance issues with the power booster and master cylinder. This will also create an engine angle down to the transfer case. This will create greater driveline angles.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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im sure i could work around some of those clearance issues, but i had not thought about the handling or driveline angle. good points all, and thank you. ill hit the junkyards this weekend and look for some nice 4wd parts. im sure i could redesign the 2wd crossmember to work also, i got the skills so it shouldnt be a problem. ill post pics.
-kit
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 09:48 AM
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I used a 4x4 frame, but there is a truck here that the guy notched the crossmember to about where the upper flat part is (hope that makes sense) to clear the differential. He also ran 4x4 coil buckets and rancho 3" coils, so he has plenty of clearance.

Hey project supercab, would you put more conversion pics in your gallery? I want to see what you did. Love your truck
 
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Old Nov 18, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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Ted thanks
more pics soon
it gets better every week
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 04:54 AM
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The crossmember in the 4x4 is more than just moved for clearance. It is boxed for a reason. The torsional load of a driving axle will twist the frame when the wheels are turned under load. The boxed crossmember helps to keep the frame from buckling. While it's not as much of an issue on the 1/2 tons with the radius arms, it is still an issue under extreame conditions where one coil spring is loaded, and one is relieved or even being pulled on if the tire is unloaded. Notching a 2wd crossmember for clearance is well beyond dangerous.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2005 | 09:42 PM
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I can't remember if it was reinforced or not, but he didn't mention problems with it.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 04:23 PM
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SuperCab Conversion

I recentley bought a 78 Supercab 4WD with the body shot but the running gear in excellent condition, I also bought a 77 SuperCab 2WD with the body in excellent condition. I plan on swapping the good 2WD body onto the 4WD frame and running gear. With your experience doing the conversion do you foresee any problems with putting the 2WD body on the 4WD frame?

Any advice would be great! By the way I think the 77-79 Ford SUpercab 4WD's look unbelievable done up...Better than a regular cab..

Angry
 
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 06:01 PM
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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Body swapping is pretty easy, worst part is rusted/hard to remove bolts.

Go out now and start spraying penetrating lube on all the bolts and nuts you plan on removing, It'll make your job a whole lot easier.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1975Ford
Lifting the engine up will also create clearance issues with the power booster and master cylinder. This will also create an engine angle down to the transfer case. This will create greater driveline angles.
A bodylift would pick these up too so there's no clearance issues with the booster or MC. In order to avoid having the engine/tranny/t-case tilted (assuming it's a married t-case) you'd need to fab a new crossmember further back for the t-case and tranny that would raise them up and then your front driveline will be at a fairly ugly angle. Personally I'd rather cut out the 2wd crossmember, put on a new oilpan, and fab a new heavy duty crossmember that would allow clearance of the axle. Of course a few inches of lift will always help too. I've always wanted to cut out my crossmember and fab it up so that it can be unbolted and removed for easy removal of the oilpan. This would allow you to pull a crank without yanking the whole engine, if you ever needed to. Brackets for a bolt in crossmember would have to be VERY strong to hold up to this kind of stress. Also, don't know what the plans are in terms of steering but take note of where you want the steering box. A lot of 4x4's used an angled crossmember. You may need to do the same so you'll have room for the steering box.
 
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