brake lights
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 200
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From: Virginia
brake lights
I've got a problem with the brake lights on my 1974 F-100 (manual brake system, front disks). They don't go out when I take my foot off the brake. The problem is that if I don't check when I park it, they drain the battery. If I pull up on the brake pedal they will go out and stay out. There is quite a bit of play at the very top of the pedal stroke.
I've replaced the switch (although the shaft for the new one is shorter than on the old one), taken apart the pivot and lubed it thoroughly and adjusted the switch to its fullest extent. Nothing seems to work.
Could the problem be in the master cylinder where the shaft that connects the pedal isn't being pushed back all the way? I may try to lengthen the shaft on the new switch to see if that will work, but if it is a problem with the master cylinder I would rather repair it properly rather than do some half-a$$ fix on the switch.
Any suggestions?
Mark
I've replaced the switch (although the shaft for the new one is shorter than on the old one), taken apart the pivot and lubed it thoroughly and adjusted the switch to its fullest extent. Nothing seems to work.
Could the problem be in the master cylinder where the shaft that connects the pedal isn't being pushed back all the way? I may try to lengthen the shaft on the new switch to see if that will work, but if it is a problem with the master cylinder I would rather repair it properly rather than do some half-a$$ fix on the switch.
Any suggestions?
Mark
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
brake lights
Would it be worth it to get the power brake booster while I'm at it? Would the rest of the parts (proportioning valve, etc) be the same? It looks like I could easily eat the core charge for the power booster but get it back on the master cylinder. Has anyone out there done this conversion? Any advice?
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Joined: Jan 2008
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brake lights
Power brakes require their own proportioning valve.
You will need to drill another hole in the brake pedal.
The adjustment on the piston rod needs to be right.
Dennis https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=1733&.jpg
[i][font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font][i]
[font color=blue]Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions,
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's" [font/]
78 F-150 429CJ,Silver, Explorer Pkg.
641/2-Mustang 260,Pre-World's Fair Car.
64-Fairlane500 S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang 289-Sunlit Gold 80,892Mi
78-Buick LeSabre 403 4V
84 Volvo DL Wagon
You will need to drill another hole in the brake pedal.
The adjustment on the piston rod needs to be right.
Dennis https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/sizeimage.php?&photoid=1733&.jpg
[i][font color=red]Calgary,Alberta,Canada[/font][i]
[font color=blue]Please Don't Ask Me Any Tough Questions,
"I'm Saving My Memory For When I Develop Alzheimer's" [font/]
78 F-150 429CJ,Silver, Explorer Pkg.
641/2-Mustang 260,Pre-World's Fair Car.
64-Fairlane500 S/C waiting for a 390-4spd.
68-Mustang 289-Sunlit Gold 80,892Mi
78-Buick LeSabre 403 4V
84 Volvo DL Wagon
