My 93 3.0L 2wd 5spd ranger has been mysteriously losing coolant for years (this was my brother's truck, then my dad's, now it's mine). About a year ago when it was still my dad's, I went over the engine with a fine tooth comb and found that it was leaking coolant from the between the timing cover and block on the right cylinder bank. The exact location is where the water pump pumps water INTO the right cyl bank. A year ago those two 13mm bolts at that location were a bit loose - I tightened them and that seemed to do the trick, or so I thought.

So I now own the truck and I noticed that when the engine is cool, there is a small trickle from that location. Not enough to drip onto the ground, but enough to run down the block and along the oil pan for a bit. When hot, there is no moisture there. Coolant loss is isn't large, but it does require refilling the reservoir now and again. Those two bolts are tight so that isn't going to help anymore.

Anyone have any input on what I should do? Removing the timing cover looks to be a lot of work. I'm tempted to use a coolant sealer since the leak is pretty small - but I JUST put in a new radiator and don't want to mess that up. (I still have the old one so I supposed I could reinstall that temporarily.

Anyone use radiator stop leak? How badly does it mess up one's cooling system? Is there a particular brand made for 'small' leaks? I see others with metal flakes, some with chopped up fiber - definitely wouldn't want to use those.

 

i have a 95 3.0 that had a slight leak and used stopleak if i remember from advanced auto parts, this was about a year ago and i havent had a problem

 

I've got the same problem with my engine. I thought it was the thermostat housing gasket, and no word of a lie, I replaced the gasket at least 5 times, if not more, thinking I screwed it up somehow, or the gasket failed. I yanked the thermostat housing out for the last time, filed the base flat as a pancake, used the gray thermostat housing sealant with the new gasket, and replaced the 13 mill bolts with studs for a tighter fit, and it still trickles out, only when it's not running, so that wasn't the problem. When running, there is no leak. I was beginning to think it's the water pump gasket, or a blown head gasket, but it's not even enough to drip, so I've given up on it for now.

I hope somebody has the answer out there. I don't want to use a stop leak. Removing the timing belt cover won't tell you anything, don't bother doing that.

 

Is your leaking at the thermostat housing? Are you using a gasket in there? The paper ones tend to wick even with sealant on both sides - I'm sure it's traveling through the paper. When I replaced the thermostat this past time I used a gasket from Autozone - looked paper but it must be impregnated. No leaks, spotlessly clean.

However my leak is truly between the surface of the timing cover and the right cylinder bank. As I mentioned, this section is where the water pump covers and pumps the water into the right cylinder bank.

I was trying to find silicate based antifreeze - given how slow the leak was it probably would have sealed up from the silicates depositing there.

I can't really see any sealing material between the timing cover and the front of the engine block at that location. Whatever material was there probably got flushed or torn out when the bolts there were loose.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to try the Bar's Leak pellets - seems to be the least risky of all the sealants, and being dry I don't think it turns your radiator fluid a mucky brown (if it did I doubt the big three would be using it).

 

Check out AlumAseal, I've used it in the past without any problems.

You can find it at WallyWorld.

Check out their FAQ page & see if you think it's for you. http://www.goldeagle.com/alumaseal/faqs_alumaseal.asp

Let us know what you do & how it goes.

 

Well, now the water pump is leaking. I seem to have run into this before on another vehicle when I switched from a silicate based antifreeze to a OAT type (and after a flush). That and I think my newly acquired Ranger is loving the attention I am giving it and just insists on showing me how neglected it was by the previous owners (thanks Dad and Bro).

I never did put any stop leak in - and won't be now.

Since I now have to replace the water pump (weep hole leak - 2nd water pump this vehicle has had, going on it's 3rd) I'm thinking of replacing the timing cover gasket to take care of that other leak.

Searching through the forums, MOST of the posts say the engine has to be lifted ~ 6" to get the oil pan off. However I found 1 post that said it didn't if the tranny were separated from the engine ~ 1/8"

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=309776

This was on a Ranger 'Edge'. Can anyone confirm that this works on a 1993 Ranger XLT 3.0L 5 spd 2WD? An engine hoist is one item I do not have access to/own.

Thanks,
Dave