Can someone tell me the size altenatory in a 04 lariat?

 

130 amps on my XLT. Hope that helps.

 

Yes it does, thank you very much. Ken

 

what the biggest altenator that can fit on the 4.6L 2004 becuase i am having some serious battery draining and where could i get it

 

Im pretty sure that Powermaster motorsports make a 200 amp for it. Is 130 amp a factory option? I think standard is 95 amp. Atleast in 03 thats how it was.

 

thanks alot how much plus install would you say

 

I think the 130 amp only comes with the tow package.

 

My 2004 XL came with 130 amp alternator. Standard Equipment- included at no extra charge, or that's is what the sticker said.

 

130 amp is standard equipment whether or not you have the tow package or not

 

why are you having problems?

what is your useage

the amp output is the maximum that the alternator will put out

better question what is the miminum output of the alternator at idle and what is your amperage useage at idle

if alternator puts out 70 amp at idle amd your useage is 100 amps, at some point you will drain the battery and the truck will shut down

We had this problem on our farm service trucks, the local alternator/starter shop helped us we used smaller pulleys on the alternators, a larger output alternator 120 amps at idle, we added extra batteries some 8d type in custom mounts

this is a problem common firetrucks sitting at a scene at idle with all the lights on. some years ago in our communities' volunteer fire department this occured when we upgraded the lights on our trucks

we applied the above, larger alternators, more batteries and paid more attention to what was turned on

 

130 amp is stock and has been for a while. before that 110 was standard.

 

emdgealc is correct....

It is a misnomer to think that just because the engine is running you have enough power to keep everything charged.

Which is why most modern day ambulances are equipped with a high-idle. When you put the ambulance in park and apply the emergency break, the engine will rev up and stay around 1500/2000rpms.

 

True dat....the alternator has a "coming in speed" and needs an exciter voltage to get things working, and once the flow begins, the RPM's help to dictate what it can pump out. The amp rating is actually "max of amps @ ???? RPM". So like mentioned above, if you are at a low RPM it may be half of that rated amperage. In that case the battery is picking up the slack until you kill tha battery, or you get the alternator upto speed.

I learned all about this in my pulling truck. I run a 521ci Ford with electric water pump, 2 electric fans, electric fuel pump, electric Hydex hydraulic pump to run my steering, my digital ignition...and I think thats about it. But that stuff, especially the hydraulic pump...is more than my 110 amp alternator can supply. So I run the Hydraulic steering on a toggle switch and only activate it when I need it, and I run 2 1000 CCA batteries that have to be charged before each pull. At the end of the days 3-4 min run time to get from trailer to scale, scale to track, down the track, and back to the trailer......the batteries read about 40%-50% even with me cycling the steering on and off. Without the alternator (I tried with no belt driven accessories at all) the 2 batteries could not take it. I would loose voltage on teh track and my ignition would go wild. My idle is at 1400 RPM, and thats all it does is idle until its time for war, where I let her go free to 9,000 RPM. I may try dual alternators this year, but I really hat throwing away that power.....Why did I tell you all that crap......to let you know that I can feel your pain, I been thru some alternator/electric battles in the last year and have been forced to accept that my 110 amp alternator aint as bad as I thought it was.

 

I posted the some of the following to another forum with the same problem with the need for more battery juice

I orginally started these changes after I crawled over the hood of our communties 1962 front mount International pumper in 1974, to get away from a trailer truck that failed to yeild to our pumper on the side of the road, I started making changes because one blinking light ( yes blinking not rotating) on top of a truck did not cut it on an interstate with trucks going 70+mph

the next day I put my hands on a surplus 4 bulb rotating beacon and had it mounted by 9:00 pm that night

2 days later while parked at a fire, the truck had been idling for about 45 minutes when the light quit rotating and the headlights dimmed to yellow.
we shut the lights off, we were in a yard and the truck kept running remember it was a 1962 model, NO electronics. after a while the light brightened and we took the truck to the shop

the owner of the shop, who hated the new light, told us that the truck had a 40 amp GENERATOR, not alternetor, yes 40 amps at full throttle. he began to blame us for all kinds of problems and he refused to fix, he was a deputy chief in the department and ordered the light removed, the chief told him NO light stayed and told me to get the electrical system up graded, at that time I was 20 and told to do whatever we needed. I had no clue what to do we had never done this on the farm

I neighbor who was into chevy trucks and whose family ran a auto parts store refuered me to an alternator shop in a neighboring town, who would help us.

I was lucky, the shop owner was a member of his town's volunteer department and he was having some of the same problems

we found that the generator put out 20 amps at idle, truck used 15 amps at idle with out and emergency lights on

we installed a 90 amp alternator and up graded the wiring.

in future years the truck had battery switched added, 200 amp alternator, 2 - batteries, we adjusted as the truck changed.

changes reflected technology changes, use changes, law changes, needs, etc

what was done to the farm vehicles made their way to our 10 fire trucks and things new in the fire service were applied to our personal vehicles

the following are the changes we made to our family and farm vehicles, this was posted to another forum::

our way




<HR style="COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->we have a slightly different logic with our farm service trucks as well as our dodges



the service trucks are F350, yes I know this is forum is for F150's but I feel this is applicable

since all our 1/2 trucks are Dodges, they are all about to be replaced when we decide what we want to do, we will be buying about 25 trucks for the family, and they will not be Dodges

Any way back to the subject

Ist we put the largest battery possible under the hood of the truck, I might add that the F350's are all 1990 or older and gas burners

We replace the orginal battery with the largest we can find, a couple have Group under the hood, remember these are 1990 or older with room under the hood

Since we use these as service trucks, we have added 2 additional batteries in custom made battery boxes right behind the cab under the flatbed
or in a custom compartment in the utility body on each side that is seperate from the tool area keeps the battery vapor etc out.

We install a motor home battery isolator that allows the vehicle battery to charge, then the isolator allows the auxillary batteries to be charged.
the isolator is rated at 120 amps

we shift isolate all the following to the auxillary battery bar that has a perko marine grade battery selector switch
Light bar with take downs and alternating lights converted to work lights
body mounted work lights
portable 12 volt lights mounted on reels
charger rack for streamlight box lights large rechargeable hand lights
charger rack for portable drills
12 clean water pump
12 volt air compressor a custom made job with a starter motor modified
for continuous use. we also have several Baldor 12 volt motor
specifically designed for continuous use as on a fire dept. brush truck
(aqua duck pump)
jumper cables fore and aft
hitch mounted portable winches as well as fixed rear winches

We have done the folllowing at one time or another as the orginal equipment fails or upgraded to as changes were made
replace orginal alternator with one with minium 130 amp output
replace orginal alternator pulley with a smaller puller, increases alt rpm
heavier duty electrical cables
install stewart warner shunt type ampmeter
jumper cables run fore and aft for power for the jumper cables and
portable winches

The Dodge 1/2 ton have had the same done to them those wth with the 8' beds get additional batteries, not necessarly 's but custom mounts. we have a custom made lift so that we can drop the mounts to check the water and clean as necessary

There is another thread here about air horns, all the F350's and most of the Dodges have the 12 volt air compressors with tanks and electric air valves or air horns

this is a little long but what we do works for us

the battery isolator allows us to have a hot truck battery for starting

we are looking to see if we can do the same to the new F150's



for someone familiar with the fire service vehicles, one will see the application of farm technology and fire service apparatus theory applied




<!-- / message --><!-- edit note --><HR style="COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=1>Last edited by emdgealc : 01-08-2006 at 10:56 PM.