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Well, its time for the old Blue Goose to get a tune up ('91 2WD, 4.9 in front, E40D in the middle, 3.55 in back) ... She's getting close to the 90,000 mile mark,so I'm looking for some advise/opinions ... She's getting cap,rotor,plugs and wires, Seafoam treatment. Tranny fluid has been replaced at rebuild.I would like to use Ford parts on these, but want to save money. Will only use Motorcraft on the plugs. Anyway, I've got a good sized Pep Boys store and NAPA store here close to home(Dallas). PepBoys has Borg Warner stuff, and NAPA has, well, NAPA.
Question#1 is ... Who has the best stuff ... Don't say a word about Autozone!
Question#2 is ... @ 90,000 miles I'm supposed to replace the rear end oil. I can suck it out or pull the cover and do it that way ... I'm basically lazy but which way is the best for the old girl?
Well, my typing finger is beginning to hurt ... So ...
Thanks for you help,
Dusty Roads, Carrollton, Texas
Question 1- It should all be OEM equivelant, and it probably all comes from the same taiwanese factory. The only time that I drive straight to Napa is for their 'Napa Chassis Parts', because that stuff is far superior to PBs, Kragen, whatever. I think they are contracted through TRW, but it is good stuff. Otherwise, I think one is as good as the other, and since Napa is pricier, I would say Larry, Mo and Manny.
Borg Warner is a known name. Why not? It's decent stuff and is at least OEM equivalant. Don't forget about checking your timing.
Question 2- I am lazy and I leave things alone that don't leak. I suck it out. If it isn't broke and doesn't leak- don't mess with it. I would only pull the rear cover off if I was gonna reseal it. Otherwise, that fluid really doesn't get contaminated, and if a few mL's are left, it doesn't matter. Only thing I would say is to drive it right before you suck it out. That way, metal fragments and contaminants will get mixed up in the oil instead of being totally settled at the bottom and will get sucked out.
Take a look at RockAuto.com. They have a good selection of Genuine Motorcraft Parts at discount - and delivered right to your door - no contact with Manny, Moe or Jack or anyone else...
I buy all my stuff from AZ. My 5 vehicles run like tops. AZ sells TRW also. Here's where I get my Ford Parts when I need them (good prices): http://www.genuine-ford-parts.com/
That link is a real good one for OEM parts, but how does it know what coler to send you when you buy on the interior trim parts, and detailed stuff like that.
I buy all my stuff from AZ. My 5 vehicles run like tops. AZ sells TRW also. Here's where I get my Ford Parts when I need them (good prices): http://www.genuine-ford-parts.com/
Run like tops? You mean they spin around really fast and crash into things? Sounds dangerous.
I just put on yesterday a MSD Blaster Coil, Accel Superstock Wires, MSD Cap & Rotor and NGK V-Power Plugs. I have a bunch more power and it isn't missing above 4,000 RPMs.
My best friends wifes works as a quality control specialist at a place that makes pistons. She says that their best quality stuff goes to the manufacturers (Ford, Chevy...) their second best stuff goes to Napa, and their worst stuff goes to the discount autoparts stores...
Gentlemen,
Thanks for the advice on the 90,000 mile tune up ... I think I'll go to autozone for the consumables and pick up the cap, rotor, and wires from Ford.
Thanks Again,
Dusty in Dallas
You may get it at half price, but if I go to the dealer chances are I'll have it same day. that can't be said for the online places.. Then there's shipping at $12 to $30 depending on what it is.
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