Sorry, originally posted in wrong forum.

Lately my right rear brake has been squeaking and then it began to get hot and smell so I figure at 74K it could use new shoes. Every once in awhile the drivers side brake would begin to drag and would make a loud howling sound at random times and then quit. So with a head cold and a sore throat, I braved the day and replaced both sets of shoes. Passenger side went fine although I think I need to go back and find out how to adjust it right. Driver side had to tighten the adjustment "star" and this still required I beat the drum off lightly. Being 10 years since I did drum brakes and the first for a Ranger, I only knew the basics and by that time wanted to get done and back to bed. I put the shoes on, tightened the adjustment star and still had to force the drum on. I had a feeling the e-brake locked up or bound some way but at the time had to use my vehicle that night and had no idea what a normal operation would look like. So I started driving it again, burning brake smell and hot drum again. This was last week and I plan on this week pulling the drums off, properly adjusting the brakes this time and replacing the spring on the passenger side I had to bypass last week due to time and money. One thing I should add is after the change, the loud howling sound and obvious dragging are gone so I must have jarred something when the drum was off.

I checked the ebrake cable leading to the drum and had someone press and release the brake. It was moving more for the passenger side than the driver side.

Once I get the drum off, what’s the common reason for the ebrake cable binding? What’s the easiest way to get it to keep from sticking in the future?

 

What works for me is raising the entire rear end and adjusting the stars until you get slight resistance while turning wheel. You could also check the ebrake this way and be able to see if it was sticking.

 

This is the way I did it 10 years ago on my F-150. Figured there was a newer and better way to do it now a days.

 

What you need to do first is replace that sticking brake cable. I would also purchase a spring kit and put the new hardware on. Just do 1 side at a time and you'll be fine. Use the other side as a reference. Your drums might also need to be cut or replaced. Have them measured and checked for roundness. After you get it back together make sure the brakes retract completely and the drum slides on freely. Then adjust them up.

 

Never replaced an ebrake cable before. What is involved? How much do they run per side? I planned on new springs for each side anyways since I can't find a place that sells individual springs.

 

Pretty easy stuff. If you have replaced rear brake shoes that is half the job. Check out either Autozone or advance autos website for prices.

 

Found them at Napa but not autozone. How much adjustment do the cables require?

 

My 98 F150 has no adjustment for the cables. The e-brke adjustment is done with the star adjuster for the reart brake shoes. You do this by jacking up both rear wheel, placing jack stands for safety and adjusting the star wheel thru the opening in the backing plate until the wheels drag while spinning them by hand.

Other ford prducts I have owned had an sdjustment for the cables. It was where the front cable attached to the two rear cables. It was a nut on a threaded rod that was used to take up slck in the cables.

You will have to either check your manual or look underneath while you are replacing the cable.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.