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i would not go with that intake. the fit/finish isnt that good and it to is made for hi rpm use. the edelbrock efi truck intake would be a far better choice or locate a gt40 upper/lower from a lightning
as for a good cam call CompCams and see what they say. and yes dont use that torker intake. sell it to offset some of your new costs

 

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oh, i thought you were talking about the efi typhoon intakes. sorry my bad. in that case that carb intake will probably work just fine. you want torque and any intake that makes power above 5500 rpms wont do you any good because that motor should never see that hi rpm if you can help it.
what year bronco is this going into?

 

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I've been seeing these on Ebay and wondered about them myself. They seem to have a decent variety of models to choose from at some good prices. I suspect they may be from Australia, but I'm not sure where I got that impression, probably from something I read somewhere...

I've been looking at their Crosswind manifold, which is a step up from the Typhoon. Here's some info from an Ebay seller's site: (this is the 289-302 version)

CrossWind Manifold for Small Block Ford V8
#54025 - Show Polished


#54026 - Satin Finish

The Power+Plus CrossWind manifold is similar to the 54000/54001 (above but features an open area under the plenum and port runners. This allows air to pass through this area cooling the intake charge which produces more power and torque.

Features cast-in nitrous bosses

Rear water crossover passage improves cooling

Includes two pipe tapped rear water ports

We have taken our highly popular #54000/54001 High Performance Street Manifold for Small Block Ford and modified it to produce a CrossWind variation of this manifold. The CrossWind design incorporates an open area under the plenum to allow a full flow of cooling air to pass through. This is similar to features found on single plane racing manifolds and this design can provide more power and torque due to a cooler, more dense intake charge. Unlike some competitive designs, this manifold features nitrous bosses, four corner water outlets, and a bonus feature of a rear water crossover passage. Available in satin finish or a highly polished show finish, this CrossWind Manifold is also very easy on the pocketbook.

Seems like a pretty wide RPM range for a dual-plane manifold, a bit higher on the high end than I would expect. Looks like a good match for the cam you linked to above.

 

for a heavy bronco you want to think torque and at a low rpm. hp wont get you moving.

 

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Stock ratio is 1.6 as well, so they wouldn't change anything. Roller rockers free up a little power by reducing friction in the valvetrain. You have two basic types: roller tip rockers, which have a roller out on the end which contacts the valvestem and a conventional pivot at the base where it it attaches to the head, and the other type is the full roller rocker which also has a needle bearing roller at the base. But they don't change the valvetrain geometry from a non-roller rocker.

 

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I'm not really familiar with those particular rockers, but they look OK. The next question for you is, what heads are you planning to use? Those rockers won't just bolt up to a stock head, you'll either have to have some machine work done to mill the stud bosses and drill and tap for 3/8" rocker studs (already done on most aftermarket heads) or install a retrofit stud kit, available from Summit or Jegs, or direct from Crane. Part #36655-16. Here's what it looks like:

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=guidePconvA

This is the cheaper way to go, although I haven't used them myself.

 

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7/16" is even bigger than 3/8", and the machining process is still the same. No advantage there.

If you're having the heads professionally ported, you might check and see what it would cost you to have the milling/tapping done. Parts you will need, in addition to the rockers:

Screw-in studs
Pushrod guide plates
Hardened pushrods

Machine work will set you back about $100-$250 for this, parts about $60-$100.
The Crane conversion kit is about $90 bucks, so yes, it's easier and cheaper. Not quite as strong though, but for your application it should be adequate.

Maybe you should look into some aftermarket heads. There are some brand-new aluminum heads on Ebay that go for about $500 bucks bare (Buy It Now price) that have 60cc chambers, 209cc intake ports, and are set up for 2.055 intake/1.60 exhaust valves. They are probably overkill for a low RPM torque motor that uses the cam you want to run, but if you're planning to port/polish the heads you have anyway...

Well, take a look: Item #8015065810

You would still have to buy all the parts I mentioned above, plus valves, spring seat cups and stem seals. And springs, although you should probaly get some springs to match the cam you want to run anyway. When you start to mess with heads, the bucks can add up in a hurry. But that's the area where the most power can be made...or lost!

 

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Stock size is only 5/16", that's why it needs to be drilled out bigger for the 3/8" bolts.

That kit looks OK at a glance, didn't really take the time to study it closely.

Are the heads you're planning to use the stock 1973 351W heads?