1976 F-150
Last edited by Torque1st; Nov 10, 2005 at 10:51 PM. Reason: remove selling mustang references
how much do you want to spend? I can get you around $15k in a hurry :-)
With that said .... You can get 425 to 450hp pretty resonabley..but the bigger step is from 450hp to say 500hp..then you start getting into deeper pockets...
and it all depend also on what you want your final build to do? Torque? More Hp? a good combo of both?
Russ
Give us more details and we'll spill the info out.
Welcome aboard! --Mike
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)Here is the going 390 build. I've probably quoted this build at least 100 times in this forum. Do a search.
1. 390 stock reconditioned crank, rods, ARP rod bolts.
2. Ported heads. FE heads respond great to porting. Better porting = more hp. It's that simple. You can pick up 75hp just from the ported heads.
3. 360 pistons to get the piston top close to the deck at TDC for good quench.
4. Mr. Gasket .020" steel shim head gaskets for good quench.
5. Edelbrock Performer RPM or Blue Thunder intake manifold. The BT costs more and flows a little better. Stick a 600cfm or a 750cfm vacuum secondary on top of it.
6. Crane 343941 cam, adjustable rockers to accurately set lifter preload. Get the replacement adjustable rockers. Aftermarket ones cost too much and are completely unnecessary for what you're doing. The Crane aftermarket ones *may* start to be price competitive. An aftermarket timing set is a good investment.
7. Headers, dual exhaust, etc.
The above build will make somewhere in the neighborhood of 410hp @ 5500rpm, and 450ft-lbs @ 4000rpm, with a flat torque curve. At the flywheel of course. Could be more or less depending on carburetor, head porting, specific pistons used, as some have a very slightly higher compression height than others, and other things.
By the time you're done this thing will probably cost you $1500 to $3000 if done right, depending on where you get your parts, and how many unnecessary aftermarket parts you choose to buy. Too many people get hung up on "Oh I need aftermarket roller rockers" or "I need better rods" when the stock type stuff is cheaper and works just as good, if not better.
Here's a link to a thread about engine theory, that I highly suggest you read, as my recommendations will make more sense:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=427321
Last edited by rusty70f100; Nov 11, 2005 at 12:04 PM.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
It all depends on what your building.... They dont call them speed parts for nothing!
And there's know way in hell stock adjustable rockers will work as well as Billit Roller tip rocker's....Well I guess they do the job ok..but build up more heat..and loose about 10 to 15hp to friction..
Bottom line is..its all what you try too squeeze out of your motor safely...and just call me crazy?? But I would'nt run a 650hp FE on 2 bolt mains either....they seem to want to split between #2 and #4 web saddle's...JMO....
Russ
Last edited by RapidRuss; Nov 11, 2005 at 01:15 PM.
But like I said when your talking BIG HP....I like to keep all my toys in one toy box!! LOL.. not a rod here and rod there.. LOL..
Russ
But like I said when your talking BIG HP....I like to keep all my toys in one toy box!! LOL.. not a rod here and rod there.. LOL..
Russ
Notice I put the emphasis on need. People get caught up in thinking that their motor will blow up or something without spending a bazillion dollars on aftermarket stuff. Sure you can want it, there's absolutely nothing wrong with that! If you've got the money, by all means, go for it!!!
I mean, for the run-of-the-mill 400hp 360 to 390 conversion, there's no way these guys need to spend all this money. Only adds to the perception that FE's cost too much.





