Alright guys, suspension is great and i'm very happy with the turnout. Thanks all for all your input.

Here's the rundown for the engine and transmission. I'm changing the oil to Chevron Delo 400 (15w-40) and oil filter. I'll probably change the fuel filter at the same time. Am I correct that I should top off the oil and fuel filters before twisting them on?

Secondly, I have a bad exhaust leak. It makes a loud flapping while in gear. When I rev it in Park, I don't hear it. Just under normal load. I will hopefully get that fixed this week.

Thirdly, I don't have any boost, at least from what the guage says. When i'm going up a steep grade, I get maybe 3lbs. of boost. I also don't hear a turbo while like I would on the newer trucks. But I don't know if this is normal or not. Is this exhaust leak related?

Fourthly, How do I check vacuum level? I think this is related to my air vents not functioning and hard to press the brake sometimes.

Fifthly, is the fuel pedal supposed to be real low to the floorboard? I seem to only get about 1.5 inches of pedel movement. I'm used to about 3-4 inches of movement on my Expedition.

Sixthly, oil pressure. On the guages (I have the stock and additional), when cold the stock one goes to the middle, the aftermarket one says about 30psi. When warm, the stock one goes to zero and the aftermarket one read just below 20psi. Is there anything I can check to raise vacuum level? Is there a PCV valve that I should check?

Seventhly, what are the standard maintenance things I should go over besides: oil, oil filter, air filter, fuel filter, transmission filter, transmission oil?

Thanks guys.

Erik

 

Hello, you should top off your fuel filter with good clean diesel before installing it. (saves on the starter) I have never heard of topping off the oil filter, I dont think this is nessassary.
Diesel engines do not make vacuum thus the vacuum pump it is located on the passenger side under the alternator, there is a vacuum line that comes off of it and runs up to a plastic splitter on the fire wall also located passenger side from there vacuum branches off to operate the brake booster, interior vents, transmission shift module and speed control among other things that require vacuum. you can pull the line off the pump fairly easily and put a vacuum guage on to see what kind of vacuum you have, I am not sure what the pressure should be exactly, I am sure you will get an answer soon on that. Check all the vacuum lines and fittings for cracks. When I bought my truck second hand, It had a new pump, modulators, tranny was just overhauld etc.etc.etc. all because of a leak at the fitting on the vacuum module on the side of the injector pump.
There is not alot of travel on the pedal.
As far as maintenance tune ups you seem to have all the bases covered. There is not much to these engine they are simply mechanical.
I wish I could answer all of your questions but I did my best. Good luck.

 

If the exhaust leak is before the turbo that would explain why no boost and getting the leak fixed should help the turbo. You might be able to hear it faintly whine but it won't sound like it does on the powerstrokes.

 

add some coolant conditioner, always replace the fuel filter when you change the oil

 

#1. You need to fill the fuel filter before you install it or it will be a bear to get started.
Don't crank the engine for more than 15 or 20 seconds without letting it cool off for a minute or two, starters are expensive and easy to burn up.
Filling the oil filter close to full is not a bad idea, less time for the engine to run without oil pressure. But I would not try to fill it all the way up, or you will wear some in your shirt sleeve.

#2 and #3. Exhaust leak is probably where your boost is going if it is before the turbo.

#4. Vacuum pump should put out about 20 inches of vacuum and it should get there rather quickly. You can disconnect the vacuum line from the pump to the vacuum tree on the firewall. Check the pump only first.
Then you can hook the vacuum gauge to the tree and compare readings, if they are different, unhook and block off each line on the tree till you find the one leaking.

#5. Check the ends of the cable for frayed places, if you see some broken wires replace the cable. It will break at a bad time, I guarantee it.
If you see no broken or frayed places, check the end out by the injection pump. The bracket may be bent or the cable is loose in it or the bracket may be loose.
The throttle lever on the pump has stops on it. The pedal should be able to put the lever against the wide open stop. No need to go more than against the stop or you will just stress the cable.

#6. The manual gauge pressures do not sound bad, they are within spec.
The factory gauge is worthless.

#7.Glow plugs need to be checked for continuity, if there is none it needs replaced.
Battery connections must be maintained and kept corrosion free.
Check the belts for cracks and tension.
Water pump belts breaking will ruin an engine in short order.
Power steering belt, if it goes you will have a hard time steering the truck.
Vacuum pump belt, if it goes while you are going downhill with a load on, use both feet hard to stop the truck, hopefully in time to miss the car in front of you.
Have the batteries load tested at an auto parts store. You must remove the negative cable from one battery while testing each of them or the readings will be wrong.
The coolant must have SCA's (Supplimental Coolant Addatives) to prevent cavitation, these levels must be checked every three months to maintain proper levels.
If you live in a cold climate, you should check the block heater for proper operation, repair it if it is bad.
That leaves brakes, u joints, steering components, wheel bearings, heater and radiator hoses, light bulbs and all the fluid levels. ( tranny, transfer case and differentials)

When you get all that checked out, you should be in good shape to go for a ride.