Cranks and doesn't run. Solution: installing IAC valve
I'm about to install the IAC now, and just want to know if I need to put gasket goo on the gasket, or dry fit it? I understand I will need to torque 89in, then 90 degree, correct?
Scenario: Started truck, ran for 4 seconds then died. Started truck again, ran for 2 sec then died. Then couldn't start truck, just crank.
Starter and alternator are fine, practically new. Fuel pressure good. Went to try several suggestions from forum such as depressing accelerator pedal slightly and see if it runs...no success.
HOWEVER, had hubby start vehicle while I got the hammer to tap on the IAC valve and PRESTO! It runs.
Off I went to NAPA autoparts to purchase a new IAC valve (they give 10% discount if you have a AAA membership). They wanted to know how I knew about tapping the IAC, told them about this Forum. They were in disbelief.
Thanks y'all for all of your solutions. You saved me beaucoup buckaroos!
Last edited by honeyCANdew; Nov 4, 2005 at 03:43 PM. Reason: Title may seem confusing
I'm about to install the IAC now, and just want to know if I need to put gasket goo on the gasket, or dry fit it? I understand I will need to torque 89in, then 90 degree, correct?
Last edited by Monsta; Nov 5, 2005 at 01:36 AM.
Also, realized it solved another questionable problem with the vehicle. My transmission was doing higher rpm's and not kicking down when it should, now that's eliminated. Go figure?! Don't know the correlation, if any, either way glad everything is back to normal. Maybe, I'll get better gas mileage too...wishful thinking.
Thanks for your response, and not laughing too hard at my truck 'goo' terminology.
Last edited by honeyCANdew; Nov 4, 2005 at 10:25 PM. Reason: Take out hyperlink to icon image



