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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 02:20 PM
  #1  
gyger1's Avatar
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Rear leaf opinions

Ok well the shackle lift and 2" block didn't level out my 78
with the 6" front lift springs. So I was looking at buying the
5.5" lift springs from Jeff's Bronco Grave Yard. Anyone have
any opinions of these springs they are in my price range so
I was pretty happy to have found them. But I don't want
crappy springs either.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 03:27 PM
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I have had pro comp springs on my truck for the last year and they seem pretty good might check them out. I don't have any experiance with the ones from the graveyard though.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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Yeah I bought the Sky Jacker softrides and those are on my front
but they were like almost $500(pair). These for the rear are 5.5"
lift for $285 + shipping I like that price alot better (that's for a pair)
I have $300 left to blow on the truck and this is the last piece my
steering is all paid for just waiting for it all to be made.

Most of the big name brand springs are pretty damn expensive ya know?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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well, if these are the 4 leaf springs with an overload they sell....my buddy has some on his 79, it sits level with the factory 3 inch block and no other mods....in my opinion they suck...they are somewhat soft, but the axle wrap is terrible!!!

i think you only flipped the stock bracket upsidedown like i did on my truck....if you go find a set of rear spring front hangers, and put them in the back and bolt your shackle to them....you should be about level with the stock 3 inch block....this should give you 4-5 inche sof lift. it will be much cheaper than buying new springs!!! hell if you cant find any, im pretty sure you can still buy the bracket from ford new, and its not that expensive
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:36 PM
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I had really bad axle wrap on my 93. I felt like I was going to hit my head on the rear window while shifing gears. I made up some traction bars and problem solved.

Even the factory springs are no good for taller tires. They wrap up as well.

I prefer the softer springs with the overload. Much more civilized to drive.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:02 PM
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Can you weld? Maybe making drop brackets for the stock springs would be an option. I hope to do mine sometime when school isn't so demanding. My plan is a front subframe that has holes for the brackets 6" lower, and then individual drop brackets for the rear to drop them 6" also. I am doing it to eliminate the rear blocks altogether, but you could build brackets for whatever drop you want and combine with blocks.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:26 PM
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here's an idea. now that you have your shackle flipped maybe concentrate on your front spring mount... the non-shackle end. esp if your pinion angle changed to a bad angle (IE is pointing way up, although i doubt it). i dropped mine about 6" and gained another 3-4" of lift. and that was just to level the truck out

-cutts-
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by KubotaOrange76
i think you only flipped the stock bracket upsidedown like i did on my truck....if you go find a set of rear spring front hangers, and put them in the back and bolt your shackle to them....you should be about level with the stock 3 inch block....this should give you 4-5 inche sof lift.
No doubt, look at my shackle flip gallery, I show pics comparing the amount of lift between just flipping the shackle bracket and replacing it with a spring hanger. I also built my own shackles that are waaay beefier than the stock set and a couple inches longer.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:54 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
No doubt, look at my shackle flip gallery, I show pics comparing the amount of lift between just flipping the shackle bracket and replacing it with a spring hanger. I also built my own shackles that are waaay beefier than the stock set and a couple inches longer.
Correct I just turned the shackle but I also will need to fill the bed up
every once in awhile with wood and haul some things around. I don't
want to have to worry about breaking hangers and shackles. Plus I
like the idea of replacing the rear springs. You guys are correct I did
not do the shackle flip to get the most lift out of it. It was only done
to get the truck level to use it for a little bit. But now I like the idea of
removing that stupid 2" aftermarket block and just putting all new
springs in.

Axle wrap...that's like wheel hop right? Cause off road and on the
road my truck feels like a bucking bronco most of the time.

Ted: I have no equipment to weld with or else I would make my
own stuff.
Here's the picture of what these springs look like.
Is that straight leaf the over load spring you guys are talking about?
Why is it there? Just to add lift? Maybe you guys are right maybe
I should just get some new shackles and buy new rear spring front
hangers and do that then I would still have some cash left. And I
could probably get enough lift out of it to remove that 2" block.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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The only weakness to a shackle flip is the shackle itself. If you use hangers instead of the stock shackle bracket it's more than strong enough, this is what's holding the front end of the spring. Options are to a) buy a heavy duty shackle like Ronin did in the other thread he posted or b) build a set. I don't have any goof pics of my new shackles but I'd be willing to bet I would not sweat hauling 1000+ pounds with them. FWIW you'll find that a lot of lift springs have VERY poor weight carrying capacity and will sag terribly when you start loading it up.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by ivanribic
The only weakness to a shackle flip is the shackle itself. If you use hangers instead of the stock shackle bracket it's more than strong enough, this is what's holding the front end of the spring. Options are to a) buy a heavy duty shackle like Ronin did in the other thread he posted or b) build a set. I don't have any goof pics of my new shackles but I'd be willing to bet I would not sweat hauling 1000+ pounds with them. FWIW you'll find that a lot of lift springs have VERY poor weight carrying capacity and will sag terribly when you start loading it up.
Ok here's what I'm thinking I buy two new F-250 (I guess for my year truck)
rear spring front hangers with two new rear spring rear shackles(mine are
pretty rusted up) I bolt that up like the pic in your gallery and remove my 2"
block should sit level with a 6" lift up front. right? So you are thinking I would
be ok with my stock springs and new hangers and heavy duty shackles?

Ok I'll buy that. Forget the Bronco Grave yard springs I'm gonna try this.
My next step is to get a winchable front bumper. This one ain't cutting it
I don't even have any tow points
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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sounds like a good plan...also, instead of buying the new shackles....buy the thicker shackles https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=425857

good move on those superlift springs....they wrap more than stock springs, and for hauling weight, they are terrible....trust me
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:05 AM
  #13  
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cool thanks for the advice everyone!
Hey KO you think I should just get a set of new stock rear
springs? Like I said they could stand to be replaced.
Basically what I'm looking for is something that will give it just
like 1" extra lift that will still flex but won't sag horribly when
loaded with wood. I might be dreaming though.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 08:20 AM
  #14  
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its really hard to get something that will flex good but still lhandle a good amount of weight. you'll prolly have to figure out which way you wanna go and got from there

what i did is use a set of stock F150 springs with the overload springs pulled and a shackle flip with no lift block and it flexed very well. but i never tried to haul anything and i wouldn't wanna have to either! lol

-cutts-
 
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 10:43 AM
  #15  
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how often do you really haul wood???? its a tradeoff like cutts said, soft and flexy wont haul crap, stiff wont flex, but will handle a laod great
 
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