When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Sorry to suddenly jump in, but to answer the question about the Transfer Case, its a Dana 24, gear driven unbreakable heavy wonder of a thing. Very good in its day, but hard to find parts for as they were only put mainly on the 67-72 F250+, and there was a Chrysler variant as well. It does have a great low range and if your engine puts out alot of torque you don't have to worry about it eating itself (well not as much at least).
I just got done swapping my Edel 750 for a 600. The 750 was like somebody had a gas can sitting upside down above the intake. No matter what I did I couldn't get it about 7mpg. New jets, metering rods, hammers, you name it. Take into consideration your elevation also. I am above 5000 feet and up here that is too much carb for anything that sees more than just the track. Rough estimates up here are to drop a whole 100cfm off of what you run at sea level, expect to see a 60-80 hp loss just because of the elevation. Its depressing but after Russ ran the numbers on Desktop Dyno and I compared them to my actual dyno runs, I cried, but I need to see what it does with the new carb setup. Just more input to the fire.
i had a stock 390 when i bought my 72 f250 and it had a rv1 stock replacement cam and a iron intake with a holley 600 vacuum secondary carb and it ran really well... had headers and dual exhaust also... i agree that your transfer case is probably a NP 205 even though it has a dana tag... does the tag have anything on it? dana made a t-case identical to the 205 and it may be the dana look-a-like also.. regardless, it probably has a 1.98 to 1 low gear... if you're looking for a motor with power for this baby, put up a thread for motor suggestions in this forum and you'll get tons of advice on proven parts... good luck, those trucks are one of my personal favs...
Last edited by fordraceboy; Nov 2, 2005 at 02:25 PM.
cool thanks. im gonna try to get it running with the carb it has on it, ill run the numbers and see what cfm it is. im also gonna run the numbers on the intake and find out exactly what it came off.
This is JMO, not trying to start a carb debate, but I've been there and done that in this case, several times with various '73 360's.
My first choice would be a Carter, second Holley.
Suggest something larger than a 600 or 650 cfm though, like 750 at least.
I found the 600 just wasn't quite enough.
A 750 is basicly to large for a 390, on a 360 it will hurt more than help. If a 600 is big enough for a stock 460 why the he!! would you need more for a 360? A 428CJ only had a 735 carb on it, and they turned 6000 rpms with an auto trans, a stock 360 will see 5000 max (closer to 4500 rpm) before the cam stops working. Rebuilding a Holley is "Kiss" (Keep It Simple Stupid) compared to any metering rod carb and tuning is twice as simple too. The Carter (no longer made) and the Edelbrock carbs are the same.
Like I said in the first place, not trying to start any debates, just relating from actual experience. I've had the same engine that big_saxy is working with. Started out with OE carb, went to a 600 aftermarket, engine wanted more, gave it a 750, ran great.
That's all.
Like I said in the first place, not trying to start any debates, just relating from actual experience. I've had the same engine that big_saxy is working with. Started out with OE carb, went to a 600 aftermarket, engine wanted more, gave it a 750, ran great.
That's all.
Everything you are saying defies logic and physics and engine mechanic. I have been doing engines, street and race for better than 45 years and it just isn't possible for a stock 360 to run better with a 750 than a properly set up and tuned 600.
Bear45/70....with that big carb logic you would also feel another power increase by installing a light vacuum secondary spring to "feel the power" come on vs the smooth transition when the secondaries open up. On the right track?
Everything you are saying defies logic and physics and engine mechanic. I have been doing engines, street and race for better than 45 years and it just isn't possible for a stock 360 to run better with a 750 than a properly set up and tuned 600.
Like I've said from the start, this has been my real life experience, I'm not attempting to make my results fit anyones logic or physic theorems or desk top dyno results.
Sorry if this doesn't fit y'alls ideas of what should happen, as I've said this has been my experience which has formed my opinion, so yes, this is JMO.
I've no wish to debate/argue or be asked "why the he!!" about actual results I've had.
That is all thank you.
you all have great ideas. maybe im just more bias twords AFB style carbs because i know them better then a holly. Maybe i should pick up a holly guide and dig in and see how it gos, learn a thing or two. Were the dana 44 front ends on these trucks pretty solid? It seems a bit small for a truck this big. Doesnt a ford 9inch have a bigger ring diameter then a 44?
Dana 44's are tough as nails. On the front end, it should be fine unless you plan to hammer on your truck off road. The ring size is a little over 8 inches, though I don't remember exactly. A Ford 9 incher is bigger and stronger than even a Dana 60, but the pinion sits lower to the ground, or any rocks or stumps you run over.
Like I've said from the start, this has been my real life experience, I'm not attempting to make my results fit anyones logic or physic theorems or desk top dyno results.
Sorry if this doesn't fit y'alls ideas of what should happen, as I've said this has been my experience which has formed my opinion, so yes, this is JMO.
I've no wish to debate/argue or be asked "why the he!!" about actual results I've had.
That is all thank you.
Ok, if what you say is true show me the time slips from the race track. If all you are doing is basing preformance off the seat of you pants feel, then you need to stop giving advise. I have a room full of trophies from several different styles of racing and was a professional mechanic for 25 year with many schools and seminars over the years by people who knows what works and what doesn't. Your kind of advise off your "actual results" are not only flawed but I will say lets put the pink slips on the line and do some test. If I'm right, your truck is mine, if not mine is yours. You see I know I'm right and it's not an opinion but a conclusion based on having done all the testing and have the numbers to prove it.
Ok, if what you say is true show me the time slips from the race track. If all you are doing is basing preformance off the seat of you pants feel, then you need to stop giving advise.
You're the only one that's said anything about time slips, I don't think the original post by big_saxy had anything to do with time trials.
My opinions/advise are from everyday driving, not the track.
My results on this subject are about driveability not ET's.
You are welcome to your opinion and I mine, unless you are a moderator and I violate some posting rule you have no business telling me to cease offering opinions here or any where else.
Now you are insinuating I'm not telling the truth, don't go there OK.
You go your way and I'll go mine, thank you very much.
the dana 44 front will be okay as long as you don't let the front end hop too bad... even with 38.5" boggers i've had mine stay together with no problems... make sure the spider gears are tight and the thrust washers behind them aren't wore out.. if they get slop in them they are your major weak point...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.