hey fellas...im glad to finally find some people that know a thing or two about fe blocks. I just recently got started in my engines class..this is my first year of collage. My instructor said we could bring in our own engines and build them to our hearts desire. So I was pretty stoked and realized I would much rather rebuild a v8 than the slant six in my van...So I hauled a 360 out of my neighbors 71 ford pickup which had been sitting for like 12 years. I got it to school...engine looks really good inside with the exception of main bearings taking a good hit. it had 80,000 miles on it. Well heres the thing...I want to build some performance into it....but I dont want to shoot my wallet with buckshot. I would like to do the stroking with bigger crank and longer rods...I don't know how much used parts for that would cost and whether or not I should buy them pre machined/treated or have our instructor's machinist do it....(he swears by him)....if I do stroke I would like the 428 crank and a set of 390 rods ...will I have to make any stock piston or head changes..differant main caps????.I already know im gonna have to do some oil mods...by the way...any suggestions other than wats on the Basic FE Oiling Mods page? I would like to be able to run regular gas in it with this setup...???? input would be gracioucly apreciated...o ya, application for the engine...I dont think its going back into that michigan ford body cause honestly the body looks pretty rusted...so I guess I'll throw er in something sweet or sell it after we are done with the rebuild

 

Also the 428 cranks can be pricey. $300-500 is the normal range. I'd think a 390 crank would be a little more reasonable price wise. They sell for $25-100 depending on condition. A decent set of short rods will be cheap enough also. Ebay is a great source for parts also. Tons of suff can be picked up cheap enough if you know what your looking for. Adjustable rockers are nice but if your cam is under .550 lift that you use they are not needed. So set a budget and the guys here can help you plan the build. Your maincaps will be fine. Post the numbers off the crank and rods before you discard them unless you know for a fact they are indeed 360 parts. You never know.
And last....welcome! Watch out for Russ.......he'll have you building a mega HP stroker!

LOL....

G.

 

Oh that Hurt G, Oh that hurt!! LMAO!!!

Well first off, if your building to keep it? or Building just for the experience? (to resell) after class is over?

I have a habit of going kinda over board (like some other's in this room) But I'll be nice and NOT mention any name's...First off welcome aboard..there are going to be times your going to want to pull your hair out!! And some really good times..Getting your parts together..and when she fires up and comes to life the first time!!

Budget is a Major thing in an FE build, Fe Parts are not cheap to buy like a 350 Chebby motor, Just a suggestion...If it were me on a tight College Budget...I think just getting my feet wet, I would just do a basic rebuild, new rings and bearing,Oil pump,Timing set,Water pump, Valve job....Maybe a small Cam, to put a little bumpity bump in it, and headers....

Then once you have your feet wet...and ya want to build some ground pounding HP and Tq....We can always help spend your money on that also!! We Love That!! LOL..

And watch out for G.....Talk about spending money!! He Has about $30,000 worth of FE parts in his Garage!! and wont sell 1 piece!!! LOL..

Russ
Then once ya got your feet wet, and you see the kind of price's

 

and just think russ, it'd have hurt even more if there wasn't just that little shard of the truth ringing in it!!! JK like russ says, the FE isn't as cheap as a small block chevy but you can do a rebuild on it pretty cheap if you want.. i've been known to slap a quick hone on the cylinders then ring and bearing it with a new cam and run it!!! cost ya maybe $400.. best advice is to just set the budget and what you want to do with the motor.. then listen to some people's advice and check around yourself, then go shopping.... unless of course you'd like to just give the boys here in the forum an open checkbook and then we'd build ya a real monster like scouder... LOL

 

Wow...thanks for the advice guys. It gives me a good idea of where I should start. as for the small block chevy idea...a good suggestion but its not me. I like original stuff, even if it does cost more to build. I didnt want to be the 4th guy with another boat anchor..bahahaha....I mean 350 in the class....I like a challenge. Ya I think im gonna hold onto this motor...I always wanted to do an old skool hot rod or something like that. I still dont have anything to put her in but the truck I pulled her out of has a posi rear end 9"?? and a four speed with granny gear... I still have to figure some budget out. My instructor said our base rebuilds would cost $1K...im willing to go about a grand over that...even if I have to borrow money...I tend to get carried away with anything I do to...well I need to do some more research tommarrow and start buying some stuff pretty soon. thanks for all those links rusty...well I gotta get back to my homework...so I'll catch u guys tommarrow. o ya heres some #'s of rods and I couldnt find a # on the crank. rods are c7te-a rods..byarrg!!!! later fellas!

 

being a former college student, i will try to stear you in the right direction.

well, first off the rod # you listed is the long rod version, 6.54 inches vs 6.48. The long rods are weak compared to the short rods. The 352, 360, 330FT use the long rods while, 390 and up uses the short rod.

The crank may say something like 2ta, or 2t on it, that is what a 68-76 casting number is like for fe cranks.

#1 with all fe's is to measure the bore and stroke, mainly the stroke. You never know it Ford back in the day.

This oil mods, is slightly overarted imo!

Well, i recommend turning your 360 into a 390. Its the cheapest stroker option. As G said the 428 cranks sell between 300-400 as a core, so you will have another $100 in the sucker before its ready. Oh and btw, the 428 has an external balance as opposed to the 360/390's internal. So theres more money in a balancer, flexplate/flywheel and engine balance.

as for doing this 390 stroker option, you just need a 390 crank, rods or any short rod, ex 390,406,410,427,428 rod. Then you can pick the approp. oversize pistons, i run some nice econo silvolite 1131's. they are cast but plenty strong for a college budget. They do leave you with a .029-.030 deck clearence though. Kurt, seems to be all over the piston selections and what not.

The exhaust, needs to be headers. Get a GOOD set of gaskets!

Intake, the stock "T" intake is fine. They are 78 pounds though, so be careful. If you want to spend some money, opt for a edelbrock rpm intake. Do not waste any money on a standard performer!

As for a carb, maybe a rebuild kit or a 600cfm holley vac secondaries. No damn double pumpers.

Ignition, you will want to upgrade to electronic over the points, more more reliable and better power.

The heads, first off i have seen so many cracked heads it rediculous. You will probaly have some c8ae-h heads, have them magnufluxed first. They will need new guides, seats, hardened for the exhaust. its possible they will need milled. I don't know about others, but I imagine they also get the exhaust side of the heads milled. You will see why, when those manidfolds come off.

I think porting will also help nicely, but if you don't want to or know what you are doing, just forget about it for now. theres always Keith Craft stage 3 edelbrocks.

end or part 1

 

part 2

continuing with the heads, the valves will need to be replaced or regrinded. Probaly depends on the valve margin though. Standard new valves are $5-6 a piece. I have some standard size stainless steel from hardcoreengineparts. They were like a $135,if you are interested. I think the stock valves will work fine for you though.

The stock rockershafts are fine for mild camshafts like a crane 343901 or similar comp piece. A good set of pushrods never hurts with Fe's but stock will do depending on the springs. Oh yeah the springs, you will need to upgrade them!!!! Do not get rv style springs either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As for a couple of Fe wonders, the pushrods must be removed bfore the intake, there are 4 bolts through the oil pan holding the front cover.

*when removing and installing the rockershaft, there are 4 bolts on each side. Anyways, loosed them a turn at a time, and then go to the next. otherwise you will bend the shaft*

Another thing to note, mainly for assembly is that the 3rd and 6th cylinder bolts for the rockershaft, are longer and are used for oiling purposes.

A standard oil pump or High volume will both work, but get a good oil pump driveshafts, like an ARP piece.


end of part 2

 

Shoot, I think with a $2,000 budget, I'd make a 395" stroker out of it!! a Good Valve job, clean up the Exhaust ports, small cam,Rebuilt 600cfm holley, Edelbrock RPM intake,short 6.490" rods, new ring and bearings, Timing set, a set of cheapy Headers (like I run) $125..or there abouts... and Bam, before ya know it you have some good bang for the buck HP and Tq...

Kurts good at building these low dollar rebuilds and getting good HP out of them...He could get you the part Numbers of what to buy....and even run a Desk top Dyno for ya..So you could see approx..what your Hp and Tq would be after your build!! JMO!!

Russ

 

Told ya Russ would have ya building a stroker....



G.

 

We checked bore and stroke. She is a true 360. heads are C6AE-R..block is C7ME-A. I've decided to do the 390 conversion, that 428 crank business sounds like an expensive hassle. Should I go with some ebay stuff or do some checking at local machine shops for the crank and rods?? That horsepower program sounds like fun. Well I know the crank and rods are where I need to start. Is 400 hp realistic with the non adjustable rockers and cast pistons? If not, im cool with around 300. be on l8r tonite

O ya is it worth looking aroun junkyards for an aluminum intake? or ebay??...some of them are repaired by welds on ebay. should I stay away from that? I would like an edelbrock rpm like you said but I think i'll wheigh in some other costs first and then go from there. thanks guys this helps alot!!!

Joe

 

you can pick up a edelbrock streetmaster intake for about 100 bucks on ebay if you keep your eyes peeled.. i like mine- since it was free and the RPM is 290... LOL if ya got any local junkyards check them for crank and rods- i grabbed a short block for 50 bucks.. just polished the crank and sized the rods and was good to go for under 200...

 

Aww Geeez..give me a break!! LMAO!! 428 crank isnt any hassle...say $350 on a crank..have the rods sized ,flex plate,and zero balance Damper..All done by the same shop...rotating assy balanced....out the door with pistons and rings...Holes Punched..

Oh that right you can get some of this stuff done at school...and then some would have to be jobbed out?? AwwwGeeezzz..you could do a stroker 360 real cheap!! JMO!!

Russ

 

You can get 400hp with the non-adjustables and cast pistons, according to the computer program anyway. You would need to use a bigger cam, like the 343941. If you use that cam and the non-adjustables, be sure to check your lifter preload!!! Do not pass go, do not collect $200!!! You'll probably wind up needing a set of custom pushrods offseting most of the cost of the adjustable setup anyway, but since I'm having a hard time selling adjustables to these guys, go ahead and try it.

The cast pistons really dont care about your horsepower, so long as you're not running nitrous, a blower, or 7000rpm. They'll live just fine. Hypereutectic pistons are available, and are probably what I'd use if I was going to do another 390 rebuild.

If you really want 400hp, you'll need a crash course on head porting. That's the only way you'll make it to 400hp. Well, either that or an expensive set of Edelbrock heads. We wont go there.

A single plane intake can provide quite a boost to horsepower if my computer program is right. Low end torque would be reduced somewhat though. Would definately put you above 400hp with the head porting.

As to locating the 390 crank and rods, I'd start at a junkyard. Failing that, DSC Motorsports has good deals on most things, including 390 cranks and rods. It might be worth it for you to not have to hassle with the junkyard?

 

I have to agree if the budget permits by all means switch to adjustable rockers. These can also be found on ebay for a reasonable price. Or as while searching the boneyards for cranks and rods look for those also. Just watch the clearances on the used stuff. You can really over oil things with worn shafts and rockers. I've also seen some good deals on Edel RPM's on ebay lately. Some FE stuff is sellling for quite a bit less that I've seen.

Russ...just kiddin ya there bud! I agree on the 428 crank if you can swing it cash wise. Good stuff.

G.

 

that powermax cam really likes it when you pay attention to the exhaust.. i put in the 1.65 valves and ported and polished the exhaust and it made a ight and day difference!!! i've used that cam in 4 different 390's and i love it!! great torque and power in a 4x4 and awesome response and driveability for an everyday rig... course with gas these days... LMAO