Installing new clutch...How hard??
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Westminster, Colorado
Installing new clutch...How hard??
Well, I had a "smokey" incident with the clutch the other day in the 1967 F-250 4x4...so that along with the prolific amount of oil that seems to be exiting the rear seal makes me think it's time for a clutch proceedure/fix that rear seal.
How hard is it to do for a single weekend mechanic? Any special tools/hightorque issues to deal with? I have a "mated" np435/np205 trans package if that helps at all.....From what I understand, the idea is to pulll the trans? (Opposite of the VW Beetle, where you pull the engine...in about 15 minutes!)
How hard is it to do for a single weekend mechanic? Any special tools/hightorque issues to deal with? I have a "mated" np435/np205 trans package if that helps at all.....From what I understand, the idea is to pulll the trans? (Opposite of the VW Beetle, where you pull the engine...in about 15 minutes!)
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 70
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From: Denver, Colorado
You too!?! My clutch fell apart about 5 weeks ago - haven't fixed it yet since I am still trying to decide if I want to convert to a C6 auto.
The clutch job is easier with the divorced t-case. Either way, there are no special tools required (other than the clutch alignment tool/rod, which should come with a new clutch assembly). If you don't have a high reach floor jack / tranny jack (4x4s need higher reach), rent one - the NP435 is HEAVY.
Holler is you need any help.
-Craig
The clutch job is easier with the divorced t-case. Either way, there are no special tools required (other than the clutch alignment tool/rod, which should come with a new clutch assembly). If you don't have a high reach floor jack / tranny jack (4x4s need higher reach), rent one - the NP435 is HEAVY.
Holler is you need any help.
-Craig
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
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From: Central Oregon
My truck is a F-100, but not much differant in clutch change. What I did, since I did not want to pull trans was pull the engine. Supported the trans with a jack and unbolted the bellhousing, removed the clutch bell crank from the side of engine and unbolted the motor mounts and the exhaust. Drain radiator and removed. Removed the engine wiring and the gas petal linkage. Took off the hood and removed the engine. Removed the old clutch and had flywheel surfaced. Put in new pilot bushing. Bolted on flywheel and new clutch, PP and throwout bearing, using alignment tool. Reinstall engine.
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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It's no more complicated than doing a VW. It is harder work though. The main tool you'll need is a floor jack with an attachment that will hold the trans so you can lower it to the ground and roll it out of the way and then jack it back up into place. My neighbor made the attachment with some channel iron. The attachment replaces that little round plate that swivels on the jack. You remove that round one and replace it with the trans attachment. My neighbor just took a 12-18 inch chunk of channel iron and welded the same size bar on the bottom to mount into the jack. I did mine in half a day.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 2,574
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From: Golden, CO
Yeah, that 205 is kinda heavy. I've been able to put a piece of 2x lumber or steel channel between the frame rails and hold the tranny up. I removed the tranny mount and slid tranny back far as I could on the crossmember before supporting the front. It's also nice to make up a few pilot studs ahead of time. Slide the gearbox up to it's mating surface, let it rest on the studs while you run bolts in the rest of the holes. When you get down to the last 2 bolts, remove the studs.
The time consuming problems are things like turn-around at the machine shop, wrong parts, stuff you forget to pick up the first time; All the things that leave you at the mercy of business hours.
I've never done the rear main on a FE, I think it involves removing the oil pan and rear bearing cap, not sure if the crank has to drop any. Maybe ask about that in the FE forum?
The time consuming problems are things like turn-around at the machine shop, wrong parts, stuff you forget to pick up the first time; All the things that leave you at the mercy of business hours.
I've never done the rear main on a FE, I think it involves removing the oil pan and rear bearing cap, not sure if the crank has to drop any. Maybe ask about that in the FE forum?
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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I agree with Hypoid, the oil pan has to drop and the rear main bearing caps, the crank also has to drop some what. An ideal time with the flywheel off. The seal is made of nylon of some sort .
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Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 174
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From: Arlington Texas
JUst did mine last month. I went to harbor freight tools and purchased a lowboy ratchet transmission jack for $70.00 best money I have ever spent, much cheaper than a broken arm! Anyone around Arlington Texas need to borrow it just give me a shout its just sitting in my shop for now I will lend out with proper ID. Also its a lot easier to install a diagram clutch than a 3 finger job the throw out bearing wanted to hang up and not aline. When I did mine my header would not let my fly wheel drop out the bottom with out removing a header so I opted not to surface the fly wheel, so far I lucked out no chatter!
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Westminster, Colorado
So, here is the big question...to you that have done the proceedure...clutch and or rear seal.....Is it worth taking to the shop to have done? Or is it easy enough that I'd be wasting my cash with the shop?
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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My clutch is good but I need to change the rear seal. (P. O. replaced the clutch but didn't change the seal when he had the flywheel off. Go figure.)
My question: And I'm sure this will sound dumb to some of you and you are invited to begin laughing now: I've never worked on Fords much so I don't know.
Do I have to remove the flywheel/clutch/tranny to change the rear seal? Or, is there a 2 piece seal available that can be changed out with the engine/tranny together?
Thanks!
My question: And I'm sure this will sound dumb to some of you and you are invited to begin laughing now: I've never worked on Fords much so I don't know.
Do I have to remove the flywheel/clutch/tranny to change the rear seal? Or, is there a 2 piece seal available that can be changed out with the engine/tranny together?
Thanks!
Senior User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 174
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From: Arlington Texas
Umimog You can do it on a weekend but As I suggested get a tran jack, biggest problem I see is can you get the fly wheel truned on the weekend? Also this is a good time to change the throwout fork rubber boot. Also look at the fork spring it has to go in the right hole for the fork to line up!
Farmt--- I have used a long deck screw to grab the top seal to pull it out but you still have to loosen up the main bearing caps to drop the crank alittle so you can get it to move. There is a tool to replace the top seal its a chineise handcuff on one side and a streight rod on the other to thread the new seal in place. You also might have to jack up the motor a little to drop the pan???
Farmt--- I have used a long deck screw to grab the top seal to pull it out but you still have to loosen up the main bearing caps to drop the crank alittle so you can get it to move. There is a tool to replace the top seal its a chineise handcuff on one side and a streight rod on the other to thread the new seal in place. You also might have to jack up the motor a little to drop the pan???
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally Posted by Unimog005
So, here is the big question...to you that have done the proceedure...clutch and or rear seal.....Is it worth taking to the shop to have done? Or is it easy enough that I'd be wasting my cash with the shop?
If you got the money and not the tools and time, take it to the shop.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2005
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Originally Posted by ramtoo
Umimog You can do it on a weekend but As I suggested get a tran jack, biggest problem I see is can you get the fly wheel truned on the weekend? Also this is a good time to change the throwout fork rubber boot. Also look at the fork spring it has to go in the right hole for the fork to line up!
Farmt--- I have used a long deck screw to grab the top seal to pull it out but you still have to loosen up the main bearing caps to drop the crank alittle so you can get it to move. There is a tool to replace the top seal its a chineise handcuff on one side and a streight rod on the other to thread the new seal in place. You also might have to jack up the motor a little to drop the pan???
Farmt--- I have used a long deck screw to grab the top seal to pull it out but you still have to loosen up the main bearing caps to drop the crank alittle so you can get it to move. There is a tool to replace the top seal its a chineise handcuff on one side and a streight rod on the other to thread the new seal in place. You also might have to jack up the motor a little to drop the pan???
Do still have all the rigamarole with the chinese handcuffs if you pull the tranny/clutch/flywheel? I sure wish the guy I bought this from had done this when he changed the clutch...