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I would also replace the brake lines but some might say I tend to go overbaord with these things. Maybe, but the piece of mind is well worth it in my opinion. Again, at the very least, replace the MC and wheel cylinders.
I should of course qualify my comments by adding the statement "if you know nothing about the history of the brake system"
Thanks for all the replies, the life of a reefer mechanic has keep me away from my computer. The truck sat for about a year. The guy i bought it from quit driving it cause it had low compression. I put some marvel mystery oil down the carb and in the gas and it loosened the valves up. It still has a stock style mc. If i get time this weekend Ill flush the system a few more times and if it doesnt help ill rebuild the mc.
Waht did the brake fluid look like that came out of the system? was it dirty and gunky looking? or was it fairly clear? If it was pretty scummy looking then the flushing should help a bit. If it was fairly clear looking then you probably have other problems
This is really an old post but really worth reading. Lots of good pointers on your brake system. I had the much of the same issue with my 55 rebuilding my master cylinder and installing the right length spring made all the difference in cleaning my lines with a brake bleeder from Snap on tools made a safe reliable system. Also if you add dot three brake fluid pull the master cylinder cap. And just do small pushes on the brake pedal you should see small bubbles keep doing that slight movement of that brake pedal until the bubbles disappear. Replace that cap with a good seal. That pedal will be good to go. If not your master cylinder is internally by passing fluid.AJ
I replaced the master cylinder on one of my old fords. The existing push rod was just a little too long. My brakes would drag just a little bit and heat up the fluid and apply the brakes. I found an adjustable push rod on ebay and solved the problem. ( it did take me a while to figure out what was going on though)
Ya I think your right, my push rod on my master is a thread adjustable. Unit must be after market long nut on the eyelet side. I removed it measured it. Cleaned it and reinstalled it. It was covered in brake fluid and the rubber was toast. After the rebuild it all looks good so far.AJ
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