Battery keeps dying
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Battery keeps dying
I have a 1990 F-150 in very good shape. It is a 5 spd. std, 4WD, with 300-6 engine. No PW, PL or AC. Used to have tilt, cruise, but ignition switch mechanism failed and had to change steering wheel with a used non-tilt, non cruise type. Have recently changed the alternator and starter.
I have a problem with the battery. It keeps dying. Have replaced it three times since the original. Just brought one back the other day (less than a year old) and got a warrantee replacement. I don't drive it every day, but if I wait more than 2 or three days in between starts it turns over slowly. If I wait more than a week, sometimes it won't have enough charge to start. I took an amperage check with nothing on. It is drawing .35 amps. I tried pulling fuses out one at a time, but the amperage draw doesn't change. The battery is an Everstart Maxx model Maxx-1N. Nameplate says 1000 Cranking Amps, 875 Cold Cranking Amps. Does anyone know what the current draw should be with nothing turned on?
Thanks,
Rick
I have a problem with the battery. It keeps dying. Have replaced it three times since the original. Just brought one back the other day (less than a year old) and got a warrantee replacement. I don't drive it every day, but if I wait more than 2 or three days in between starts it turns over slowly. If I wait more than a week, sometimes it won't have enough charge to start. I took an amperage check with nothing on. It is drawing .35 amps. I tried pulling fuses out one at a time, but the amperage draw doesn't change. The battery is an Everstart Maxx model Maxx-1N. Nameplate says 1000 Cranking Amps, 875 Cold Cranking Amps. Does anyone know what the current draw should be with nothing turned on?
Thanks,
Rick
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
you haved a draw somewhere. is the glove box light shutting off? take out bulb if not sure.
when you changed steering you could have pinched a wire.
do you have an aftermarket radio? if you do was it installed right?
is fuel pump shutting off when you turn off truck?
2 weeks in the middle of winter and my truck will start first time.
when you changed steering you could have pinched a wire.
do you have an aftermarket radio? if you do was it installed right?
is fuel pump shutting off when you turn off truck?
2 weeks in the middle of winter and my truck will start first time.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 161,999
Likes: 75
From: 3rd Rock
Originally Posted by rick5037
I have a 1990 F-150 in very good shape. It is a 5 spd. std, 4WD, with 300-6 engine. No PW, PL or AC. Used to have tilt, cruise, but ignition switch mechanism failed and had to change steering wheel with a used non-tilt, non cruise type. Have recently changed the alternator and starter.
I have a problem with the battery. It keeps dying. Have replaced it three times since the original. Just brought one back the other day (less than a year old) and got a warrantee replacement. I don't drive it every day, but if I wait more than 2 or three days in between starts it turns over slowly. If I wait more than a week, sometimes it won't have enough charge to start. I took an amperage check with nothing on. It is drawing .35 amps. I tried pulling fuses out one at a time, but the amperage draw doesn't change. The battery is an Everstart Maxx model Maxx-1N. Nameplate says 1000 Cranking Amps, 875 Cold Cranking Amps. Does anyone know what the current draw should be with nothing turned on?
Thanks,
Rick
I have a problem with the battery. It keeps dying. Have replaced it three times since the original. Just brought one back the other day (less than a year old) and got a warrantee replacement. I don't drive it every day, but if I wait more than 2 or three days in between starts it turns over slowly. If I wait more than a week, sometimes it won't have enough charge to start. I took an amperage check with nothing on. It is drawing .35 amps. I tried pulling fuses out one at a time, but the amperage draw doesn't change. The battery is an Everstart Maxx model Maxx-1N. Nameplate says 1000 Cranking Amps, 875 Cold Cranking Amps. Does anyone know what the current draw should be with nothing turned on?
Thanks,
Rick
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Joined: Nov 2003
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FYI you did not have to replace the steering column, just for the ignition tumbler. I just replaced my ignition tumbler. Brought my keys to the parts dept at the local ford dealership. They measured my key so that the replacement keys coming with the tumbler would fit my door. Cost about $60 and it's a 2 minute install.
You're headed in the right direction with test you did. What else is hooked up to the battery? Did you pull any of the relays that you have? If you disconnect power to the fuse panel, do you still have a draw? Think bigger, disconnect the fuse panel. Is there still a draw? If yes, disconnect the alternator. Check again. The starter. Check again. Keep disconnecting things until you find it, or can rule them out.
Did this only begin after the steering column swap?
You're headed in the right direction with test you did. What else is hooked up to the battery? Did you pull any of the relays that you have? If you disconnect power to the fuse panel, do you still have a draw? Think bigger, disconnect the fuse panel. Is there still a draw? If yes, disconnect the alternator. Check again. The starter. Check again. Keep disconnecting things until you find it, or can rule them out.
Did this only begin after the steering column swap?
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 285
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From: Sioux City, Iowa
Get a test light if you don't already have one they are like $10-$15, they are useful for other things as well. Unhook the positive(I think) battery cable and connect the test light between the cable and the terminal post.
If there is a drain it should be lit. Be sure all your doors are closed and no lights are on. If you have a light under your hood disconnect it, just be sure the that test light doesn't go out, if it does it was caused by the light under your hood.
Now start pulling fuses until the test light goes out. I always start with the cordousy fuse.
I'm sorry if I made it confusing. That is how I check for battery drains and it works, I've diagnosed several problems with only a $10 test light.
If there is a drain it should be lit. Be sure all your doors are closed and no lights are on. If you have a light under your hood disconnect it, just be sure the that test light doesn't go out, if it does it was caused by the light under your hood.
Now start pulling fuses until the test light goes out. I always start with the cordousy fuse.
I'm sorry if I made it confusing. That is how I check for battery drains and it works, I've diagnosed several problems with only a $10 test light.
