Overheating after rebuild...
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Junior User
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Overheating after rebuild...
Hey guys, i got my truck to start after rebuilding it and it didnt want to start because I had '96 Explorer injectors in it, so i replaced them with brand new injectors for my truck and it fired right up but now, it has several problems, first of which it is VERY erratic and the RPM's jump up and down but after about 20 seconds it finds its home at a very rough 1000 RPM's but then drops to a dangerously low 500 RPM's. Then, it overheats after not too long at all. It has all the following installed as a rebuild:
.273 Pistons
Piston RIngs
Reground Crankshaft (original from engine)
New oil Pump
New oil pump screen
New distributor (tested and proven before engine was shot)
New oil pan
All new gaskets and seals
New bearings
Heads redone
New lifters and push rods
Block cleaned
New head bolts
Junk yard lower intake manifold looked like in great condition, thoroughly cleaned and degreased
New water pump
New timing chain and gears
New plugs wires cap and rotor
This is getting VERY frustrating and i have dumped about $1300 into it. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks so much.
.273 Pistons
Piston RIngs
Reground Crankshaft (original from engine)
New oil Pump
New oil pump screen
New distributor (tested and proven before engine was shot)
New oil pan
All new gaskets and seals
New bearings
Heads redone
New lifters and push rods
Block cleaned
New head bolts
Junk yard lower intake manifold looked like in great condition, thoroughly cleaned and degreased
New water pump
New timing chain and gears
New plugs wires cap and rotor
This is getting VERY frustrating and i have dumped about $1300 into it. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks so much.
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1986 5.0 radiator looks to be in very good condition the person who had it before me i believe put in a new radiator , it looks VERY good. The thermostat and water outlet is brand new also, i forgot to mention. It is a 180 degree superstat. There is something very interersting going on though, i took the cap off, it is topped off with coolant, so to make sure it is flowing i went and started it and ran it for a minute and a half anfd the coolant didnt move!!! it jsut sits there, and i remember in the past as soon as you start it up, it would be flowing!
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Also, almost ALL sensors were replaced before the truck was shot, and it has a fairly new true duals setup with full length headers. The only sensors on it that are not new r the ACT that came with the manifold and i had to tap a hole for the knock sensor, other than that its all fairly new and the wiring is in excellent condition. Before i blew the rings i had it running perfect.
Last edited by Joe7qb; Oct 30, 2005 at 11:22 AM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,276
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From: NE Tennessee
An air pocket. Maybe drill a couple bleed holes in the thermostat.
Vacumm leak making it run lean.
Timing off. Could be the timing chain not set right if the distributor timing looks good.
Clogged radiator from debris with the rebuild.
Vacumm leak making it run lean.
Timing off. Could be the timing chain not set right if the distributor timing looks good.
Clogged radiator from debris with the rebuild.
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From: Edwards Air Force Base
Originally Posted by Joe7qb
One more bit of information, It blows short, fast constant beats of white smoke on the drivers side exhaust exit which is conencted to the drivers side head. What does this mean?
Lee
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Joe Kucinski
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From: Winnipeg, Manitoba
Originally Posted by Joe7qb
One more bit of information, It blows short, fast constant beats of white smoke on the drivers side exhaust exit which is conencted to the drivers side head. What does this mean?
One curiousity, were either the block or the heads decked? (resurfaced).
If one was, but the other was not, you'd need to use composite gaskets to take up the potential uneven surfaces. They are never a bad idea in the event of a rebiuld, but are a bit thicker than stock.
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yes, they were both resurfaced...and, the exhaust problem is only AFTER it gets erxtremely hot..i forgot to mention this..so both the head gaskets r correct, and, the thermostat is working and was installed correct, i took it out, and installed the water outlet with no tstat and ran it...STILL no collant movement!!!!!..thats leads me to believe the water pump they gave me is defective..what do u guys think?
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
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From: Edwards Air Force Base
If you have no water movement then yes, the water pump is likely dead or you have a blockage n a passageway but the white smoke from the tailpipe means that it got too hot and either warped your heads or blew the head gasket.
White smoke is usually burning antifreeze and if it is puffing it, then it is likely just one or two cyclinders leaking.
Lee
White smoke is usually burning antifreeze and if it is puffing it, then it is likely just one or two cyclinders leaking.
Lee
Last edited by Lee Lichterman; Nov 2, 2005 at 07:47 AM.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Illinois
Very good advice from the others. Most likely a blown head gasket or warped head. If the engine was severely overheated I would check the heads for cracks also.
Another piece of advice: Check you thermostat. If the stat isn't opening you wont see coolant movment. Make sure it is installed correctly i.e. the spring and element are pointing toward the engine and the cone shaped part is pointing at the radiator.
The reason I mention this is because I have an 86 f 150 that I'm fixing up and an 85 that I'm using for parts and they both had the stats in backward!
Just something to keep in mind...
Ben
edit: Sorry, I read your last post a little better, you already checked the stat.
Another piece of advice: Check you thermostat. If the stat isn't opening you wont see coolant movment. Make sure it is installed correctly i.e. the spring and element are pointing toward the engine and the cone shaped part is pointing at the radiator.
The reason I mention this is because I have an 86 f 150 that I'm fixing up and an 85 that I'm using for parts and they both had the stats in backward!
Just something to keep in mind...
Ben
edit: Sorry, I read your last post a little better, you already checked the stat.
Last edited by Neb86; Nov 2, 2005 at 06:23 PM.
Playing in the Dirt
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Southwest Georgia
One thing that I learned the hard way several years back. After a rebuild air gets traped in the block when you fill it with anitfreeze. An air pocket behind the thermostat will not transfer heat to the thermostat and it will not open, causing an overheat, possible head gasket failure, piston seizure, etc. depending on how long the engine runs hot. To keep this from happening, when filling the block leave the bolts holding the thermostat housing loose. When coolant starts to come out tighten up the bolts, NO AIR POCKET. Also make sure that the head gaskets are installed correctly, different engines have differnet water passages blocked off by the head gaskets, put them in backwards and you have problems.
On all of my rebuilds I use spray cooper gasket sealer on all of my head gaskets. It makes the gaskets tacky and helps hold them inplace during head replacement. It also seals any small imperfections on block or head mating surfaces. Hope this helps.
plowhand
On all of my rebuilds I use spray cooper gasket sealer on all of my head gaskets. It makes the gaskets tacky and helps hold them inplace during head replacement. It also seals any small imperfections on block or head mating surfaces. Hope this helps.
plowhand
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Spokane, WA
No one mentioned a very simple and common problem, which way was the head gasket installed? It should block the front ports from the block to the head in order to force water to the back of the block, then up to the head, then forward to the manifold/thermostat. When installing them, I is usually upsidedown to the other so both blockoffs face forward.
The only thing that leads me to belive this isn't the case is the non-movement of coolant. Usually, this makes it flow pretty quick.
Another thing to consider, are you using a reverse rotation water pump...the type designed for a serpentine belt? If you use one with standard V belt setup, you coolant will not circulate.
Things to consider.
Kenny
The only thing that leads me to belive this isn't the case is the non-movement of coolant. Usually, this makes it flow pretty quick.
Another thing to consider, are you using a reverse rotation water pump...the type designed for a serpentine belt? If you use one with standard V belt setup, you coolant will not circulate.
Things to consider.
Kenny
Fleet Owner
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 28,609
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From: Lake Tahoe, Nevada
When it comes to thermostats, (and things in general,) NEW MEANS NEW, but new does not mean good. It is not uncommon for a brand new thermostat to be stuck. Pop it out and exercise it. When you first push it on the shaft you may feel it break loose.
My guess is that your new stat was stuck and never has opened and the engine got hot enough to cause that head gasket to leak. I would fix the stat and retorque the heads and see if that does it. You might be lucky.
My guess is that your new stat was stuck and never has opened and the engine got hot enough to cause that head gasket to leak. I would fix the stat and retorque the heads and see if that does it. You might be lucky.