92 Drum Brake Conversion kits?
I ask because an Intrepid I just got has them and its the most stupid design IMO. For emergency brakes, they placed an 8inch drum brake inside the rotor. So I had 2 sets of pads and 2 sets of hardware to replace...
I want to get rid of my drums, because i don't like to change the drum brakes, because it is to much to take apart, takes to long.
A&A Manufacturing small GM caliper brackes $8.66 each
2001 Chevy Cavalier brake calipers $15.99 each(from local AutoZone)
Valucraft pads for the calipers $8.99 each(loc. AutoZone)
Junkyard 98-03 F150 master cylinder w/ 4wheel disc. $30.00
This may not be correct. I'm not sure the calipers are the right ones nor if the newer master cylinder will fit the older brake booster. Don't forget you may have to change the brake lines. And I have yet to find a disc. but I have been told some older Jeep front ones will fit.
Instead of changing the master cylinder out, some just take the proportioning valve out and use an aftermarket adjustable unit. But, if you did this, you would have no brakes while driving if a line broke or something. Plus, it seems better to get one for a truck that already has 4 wheel disc and not have to mess with it more. As for a parking brake, there are older GM Eldorado calipers that use a cable parking brake or you could get one of those pinion brake set-ups(cheaper).
I'm sure someone else who has done this will add more info on the subject. You may also want to search the forums.
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A lot of rear disc brakes are shaped so the parking brake is actually a mechanical drum brake inside. Chrysler and GM do this all the time (even in C3 and C4 corvettes!). Nothing wrong with it, it solves the problem, but more parts to break and need fixing down the road. Also makes the rotors more expensive.
If you convert to discs in the rear, which will help with stopping power while loaded, you need to adjust or change your brake proportioning valve. I installed an adjustable unit on my crewcab, even though I have drums in the back still. The reason for this is I don't want too much rear "bite" unloaded, as the wheels can lock (even with the RABS - go figure, and yes, it's working) but when I load the truck down with 3000+ lbs, I want the rears to bite a little more, taking some of the load off the fronts so I still have some control if I have to brake hard, with a heavy load. I live in NJ, people cut you off without looking then immediately go 20 miles below the speed limit.
About the cavalier calipers - they are good units, but you might consider something slightly larger, off a larger GM car. Not because you would really need more braking power, but you want the calipers to be physically bigger, having more mass to them. I know that sounds odd, but the cavlier calipers, under heavy braking, can heat up pretty good, and boil your brake fluid over, reducing your ability to stop. The larger the caliper, i.e. the more material/mass it has, the more "insulation" you have between your brake piston, and the tremendous heat of braking.
Just some thoughts and comments...
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On the drums can't I just remove them and replace them with disk brakes and rotors, or is there more to it.
If your just looking for better braking, get some performance rotors/drums and ceramic pads/shoes. My set is just over a year old and I love them. I've never had such good braking!
Tim
any caliper, some calipers have E-brakes.
You might even find a bolt-on caliper bracket?
Here's a place to start lookin, maybe give them a call?
http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_i...roducts_id=295
You should be able to run the same rotor on the rear as you do the frt.
With your choice of bracket & caliper.
Gene
92 - I just did the fronts, since they do most of the stopping and I rarely haul anything heavier than my snowblower. Ya know.. I don't think they make ceramic shoes for the rear. At least I don't recall that even being an option.



