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I'm getting ready to have my rear window tinted and thought it would be a good idea to replace the window weatherstrip before I do. I'm noticing some slight scratching to my glass now so i'd like to protect the glass and new window tint from damage. I see that it's not too pricey to buy the inner and outer wheatherstrips. The question I have is how hard is it to replace these? I notice that part of routine maintenance is to use silicone on these parts. How many of you do this? How often and what type of silicone do you use?
I have NEVER siliconed the window sweeps. They are "fuzzy " on the side that "sweeps" the window and the silicone would leave the window streaky and oily. In fact, I avoid ANY kind of petroleum or similar type products for this reason. If you feel compelled to "lubricate" the tracks in either end of the gate or the weatherstripping, direct your "compulsion" elsewhere. It won't help the window move any faster and will deteriorate the rubber/felt track liners and the weatherstripping. If the window has problems moving its far more likely that the tracks are misaligned or the parts of the window regulator that SHOULD be greased are gummed up and sticky with dirt that has settled into the old grease.
Replacing them requires getting them pulled UP out of the tailgate. They slide into place on little metal clips that catch on holes along the edge of the sheet metal. The clips are built into the weatherstrips. The project is a bit more complicated with the window in the gate but not impossible. Just requires small fingers or patience in getting the new strips started into the gate.
Thanks for the replies. So the sweeps just pull straight up out of the tailgate and new ones slide right back in. Sounds easy enough. Do the end pieces do the same thing or are they bolted in somehow?
My window works fine now. The only things I notice are the window moves slower when it's rainy and the glass is wet and the fact that I have some slight scratching on my glass. I was thinking the same thing about grease and streaks if I used silicone on the sweeps plus the fact that i'd never heard of doing it before until I read this on my repair manual. Maybe I'm reading this wrong?
"Weatherstrip
Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip."
Those end pieces may take you a bit to get them back in right. You have to put the end up in a certain little section of the tailgate and twist the piece then push it in or something similar to put it back in it. You have to use a tool or use your fingers to lift up on the glass and push the clips in and work your way across the things. Its simple but you may get pissed off in the process.
get them from Bronco Graveyard - they have most flavours for the different trucks. The rear strips are easy to replace - took about 10 mins on my '92. Just remove the single screws from the rubber end pieces and prise them off then (with the window down, tailgate open) prise the weatherstrip away from the body with a wide blade screwdrive. If you have a look at the new strips you'll see how the clips work. The new strip just pops straight in....
Thanks for the heads up on the pricing, I haven't made my order yet. Unfortunately I just called 3 Ford dealers parts counters within 20 miles of me in Virginia Beach and they all had the same pricing. $42.48 for the outer sweep (in-stock), $35.62 for the inner sweep and $15.23 x 2 for the end pieces. At those prices graveyard is a much better deal.
Have you got a Ford/Sterling heavy truck dealer nearby? Thats where I go if I have to go to a dealer for parts. As Ford truck dealers, they often are "fleet service" locations so they stock parts for every Ford truck imaginable all the way down to Rangers and the pricing has always seemed much better than the "car" dealers because all they mess with are the trucks.
Greystreak... Thanks for the advice on the Ford/Sterling Truck dealer. I'd never heard of them before but it turns out I do have one in the area. I called them today and they were $10 cheaper for all the parts together but didn't have any of them in stock. Still nowhere near Graveyards price. I will however keep calling them in the future for factory parts.
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