Installing 2 inch shackles
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Installing 2 inch shackles
I haven't seen any posts on installing the lowering shackles on the rear springs. It seems a lot of people are looking to alternative methods of lowering rather than removing leaf springs. How difficult is it to install, and what should I be aware of before installing them.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Ed -
I put them on mine. The operation is pretty simple ... in theory. It should only have taken a couple of hours to do both sides. Unfortunately, I did them before I was a member here and didn't know about "Henry's holes". The truck was out of commission for a couple of weeks before I finished.
The key to the whole thing is finding the holes through the frame behind each rear shackle pin. Once the lock pin is removed, the shackle pin can be easily driven out using a long drift pin and hammer. Replace it with the new pin, mount the longer shackle, attach with pin to the spring, reinstall lock pins, grease everything and your done. Maybe with this info, you can do it in the couple of hours it should take.
I bought my 2 inch drop shackles from John's F-Fun Hundreds (p/n 5776AA - $85/pr).
Good Luck.
I put them on mine. The operation is pretty simple ... in theory. It should only have taken a couple of hours to do both sides. Unfortunately, I did them before I was a member here and didn't know about "Henry's holes". The truck was out of commission for a couple of weeks before I finished.
The key to the whole thing is finding the holes through the frame behind each rear shackle pin. Once the lock pin is removed, the shackle pin can be easily driven out using a long drift pin and hammer. Replace it with the new pin, mount the longer shackle, attach with pin to the spring, reinstall lock pins, grease everything and your done. Maybe with this info, you can do it in the couple of hours it should take.
I bought my 2 inch drop shackles from John's F-Fun Hundreds (p/n 5776AA - $85/pr).
Good Luck.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
Randy, thanks for the info... Did you have any problems with the longer shackle hitting the wood bed? I've heard there were problems with the longer shackle hitting the wood?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Ed -
My shackles just clear. There certainly isn't room for a longer shackle, though.
I have some thin (1/16" thick) rubber sheets that separate the bed wood from the frame cross braces. I always assumed that they were part of the stock geometry to eliminate squeeks, even though the bed wood obviously wasn't original. If those spacers weren't there, the shackle might rub the bottom of the wood. It is that close. So, if your setup is closer than mine, you could either add thin spacers under the wood or trim the shackle end to provide enough clearance, or clear out the plank locally to allow for the shackle swing.
You can see my setup and decide for yourself when we get together in November. (I just can't wait to see your truck).
My shackles just clear. There certainly isn't room for a longer shackle, though.
I have some thin (1/16" thick) rubber sheets that separate the bed wood from the frame cross braces. I always assumed that they were part of the stock geometry to eliminate squeeks, even though the bed wood obviously wasn't original. If those spacers weren't there, the shackle might rub the bottom of the wood. It is that close. So, if your setup is closer than mine, you could either add thin spacers under the wood or trim the shackle end to provide enough clearance, or clear out the plank locally to allow for the shackle swing.
You can see my setup and decide for yourself when we get together in November. (I just can't wait to see your truck).
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2002
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I too just installed the lowering shackles a few weeks ago. However, my old pins, etc were installed a mere year ago and had ZERO miles on them, so the pins came out with VERY little effort. Whole job took less than an hour (cause the pins were new and well greased).
I'll be able to tell you if they rub on my wood in Jan. (2008, that is).
I'll be able to tell you if they rub on my wood in Jan. (2008, that is).
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 6,328
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From: Iowa
Ed
A little under two hours. I recommend an air chisel to tap out the pins. Don't forget to remove the retainer "pins" first. Mine clear the wood by 1/4 inch maybe. Wouldn't be too big a deal if they rubbed the wood. Make sure you raise the front spring brackets too. It's a simple redrill. Keeps your pinion angle about the same as it was before. Expect a little over an inch of drop if you do both ends. I got 1 1/4" as I recall.
A little under two hours. I recommend an air chisel to tap out the pins. Don't forget to remove the retainer "pins" first. Mine clear the wood by 1/4 inch maybe. Wouldn't be too big a deal if they rubbed the wood. Make sure you raise the front spring brackets too. It's a simple redrill. Keeps your pinion angle about the same as it was before. Expect a little over an inch of drop if you do both ends. I got 1 1/4" as I recall.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Santa Clarita
I've already relocated the front mount raising it up. I'm sure the pins in mine are beyond and need replacing. I'll think I'll get the kit and install it before I put the new wood in. Or.... I can wait till 2008 for Ferguson!
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