snow chains
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Freshman User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 49
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snow chains
I have a 1988 F250 with 2WD and i was wondering if i need just i set of chains on the rear or would it be better with chains on both axels to help with braking and steering.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Where do you live?
You must be traveling some back country roads.
Chains on the front will help you stop and steer when on dirt, gravel, snow pack or ice.
But if you hit a patch of bare pavement the chains are not very good for traction steering or stopping.
Same goes for rear wheel chains, but it is not as critical as it is on the front.
A couple of years ago we had a major snow storm.
I was plowing almost 24/7 for about two weeks.
The city got the main streets cleared and salted in a couple of days and the snow melted away. As I was driving through town to get to the other side a car tried to pull out of his driveway in front of me but got stuck half way out in in the road. I had the truck chained up on all four corners and when I hit the brakes the truck just skidded on the chains. Didn't even slow down with the steel against the blacktop. Fortunately I still had the presence of mind to let off the brakes and steer out of the problem and there was enough room to go around. The plow sure would have done a number on the side of the car if I would have hit him.
After that I always remove the chains on one end or the other when I have to drive on bare road, even though I am going to have to put them back on in a couple of miles when I get to the next plow job.
You must be traveling some back country roads.
Chains on the front will help you stop and steer when on dirt, gravel, snow pack or ice.
But if you hit a patch of bare pavement the chains are not very good for traction steering or stopping.
Same goes for rear wheel chains, but it is not as critical as it is on the front.
A couple of years ago we had a major snow storm.
I was plowing almost 24/7 for about two weeks.
The city got the main streets cleared and salted in a couple of days and the snow melted away. As I was driving through town to get to the other side a car tried to pull out of his driveway in front of me but got stuck half way out in in the road. I had the truck chained up on all four corners and when I hit the brakes the truck just skidded on the chains. Didn't even slow down with the steel against the blacktop. Fortunately I still had the presence of mind to let off the brakes and steer out of the problem and there was enough room to go around. The plow sure would have done a number on the side of the car if I would have hit him.
After that I always remove the chains on one end or the other when I have to drive on bare road, even though I am going to have to put them back on in a couple of miles when I get to the next plow job.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 2
If you do get tire chains get chains and not those cables as they are CRAP if you get a good set of V-bar chains they should work good for you. A good set of snow tires and some weight will help when you don't need chains.
I would just use the chains on the rear and run a snow tire on the steer for extra steering control.
I would just use the chains on the rear and run a snow tire on the steer for extra steering control.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 0
From: newfoundland canada
Rear only,chains on the front are very dangerous for use on the street,all kinds of stopping and steering probs on black top.Also,you only think the truck rides rough now,wait till your runnin on the chains.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
From: Bothell, WA
When I chain up I chain all 4. If the pavement shows bare spots I take all 4 off. I run a pair of light passenger car style chains on the front and a heavy truck set on the rear. Normally, if the ride gets rough you don't have enough snow to need chains. If you are fighting ice and studded tires don't provide enough traction a set of cables is a happy compromise between bare tires and chains. The problem with safe driving in the winter isn't how fast you can go it's how quickly you can stop and how well you can steer. Traction devices on only the rear wheels might be better than nothing but they only fix half the problem.
Last edited by tdford; Oct 29, 2005 at 10:16 PM. Reason: to correct grammar
New User
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 18
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Hmmm - in reply to those folks that say "get the real chains" not the cable chains: that's what I did for my E350 van, and while they work great if the snow's deep enough...
when it's mixed snow/pavement, anything faster than 12 MPH and the van's about to shake apart :-) , and the cable chain drivers go flying past me, finger raised in salute...
Anyway, I feel the real chains are just too much, at least for the snow I'm (rarely) in...
when it's mixed snow/pavement, anything faster than 12 MPH and the van's about to shake apart :-) , and the cable chain drivers go flying past me, finger raised in salute...
Anyway, I feel the real chains are just too much, at least for the snow I'm (rarely) in...
