Electrical problems
#1
Electrical problems
My 84 bronco has the distributor mounted ignition control module and an eec-iv computer. 351w and c-6 auto trans. I recently went outside to leave and the thing wouldnt start. It rotates but is not getting spark, it is getting fuel. i checked the obvious, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, coil, tfi module, neutral safety switch. and i cannot figure it out. I rebuilt my wiring harness because the thing is so old the insulation was crumbling off the wires like wax so i pulled the whole harness, took off all the tape and stuff, and replaced each wire one at a time. and still nothing. I looked in my book and it was talkin about hall effect and all sorts of stuff i cant fathom. I know that it is almost never the brain box so i am stumped. please help on this one i have no idea why she's dead. thanks guys.
#3
cool, thanks Kem, I was pretty sure that it is, the only way to know is check it with a meter and i dont know how to do that. my stepfather has a ammeter or voltmeter not sure and i know it will work for the job i just have no idea what setting to put it on to get the info i need from it. i will see what the guy think about this.
#4
Ok i posted the same thing somewhere else to see if i could get some help, my manual said something about using a 12v test light but i dont have one. can i make my own using a couple wires and a 12v automotive bulb? I dont know if the coil is getting power, i just assumed that it was because i repaired the wiring harness. I called the ford house about a replacement harness and the guy laughed at me when i said 84. so forget those guys.
Last edited by skelator84; 10-26-2005 at 11:13 AM. Reason: add more info
#5
Two wires running to the coil. One is the "hot" or positive power feed. The other is the negative and in automotive electrical systems the "ground" for all intents and purposes. You can connect a 12V lamp (light bulb) of ANY variety to the two wires and it should light if power is getting through those wires. If so, the coils is getting power (assuming the connections between the wires and the coil are tight. A voltmeter would be used much the same way. You would turn it on, set it to read DC volts GREATER than 12 volts. (So don't set it to read up to 5 volts DC or you will pop an internal resistor or fuse) Touching the two leads from the meter to the two wires running to the coil with the ignition ON should get you a reading on the meter somewhere in the range of 11.5-13.8 VDC (Volts Direct Current) If the meter is a digital meter you may see a "-" (minus sign) in front of the reading. If so, swap the position of the leads on the wires.
#6