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header removal and install tips

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Old Oct 22, 2005 | 04:39 PM
  #1  
dhag911's Avatar
dhag911
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Laughing Gas
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
header removal and install tips

hopefully now with the fall seeding and harvest coming to a close i can get my headers on.

what kind of tips can you guys give me on removing the old and putting on the new. it is for the truck in the sig. with the headers off should clean or do anything or look for anything in the ports.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2005 | 11:23 AM
  #2  
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dale gribble
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I don't see your sig... What kind of truck/engine is it?

Anyways, you are in for a definite chore. I guess the passenger side is just a bear. Everyone who has done it says to take the extra 15 minutes and remove the passenger inner fender. Good luck! You would be a star if you did a tech write up for the guys here!
 
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 01:14 AM
  #3  
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dhag911
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Laughing Gas
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
it is a 92 f-150 with a 302. i have heard that the passenger side is a pain.

any tips like spray penetrating spray a day or 2 before multiply times unscrewing the bolts when they are warm or not? anything would help since they are the originals at 160,000 miles
 
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 07:43 PM
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Jack01
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From: central valley California
I have done a many exhaust manifolds on the Hummv built for military applications.. the best thing I found to do is to spray and then spray some more with a penetrating oil warm them up just a bit then break the bolts free by hand and then use my air tools to remove them from there...

I am getting ready to do the headers on my 95 F-150 302 and it looks as if the passenger side is going to be some what problem matic being that is where me air tube from the air pump is attacthed to the exhaust manifold bolts OEM dont know what I am going to do with them on the new set
 
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Old Oct 25, 2005 | 07:52 PM
  #5  
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t_dickie
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From: Brandon Mb
I put a set on my 351 in August, and it actually wasn't that bad. Now, let me say, I had put them on when the engine was out, but I still had to pull the passengers side off to fix a small leak, so the bolts weren't settled. Also, I had removed the air pump and all its hoses while the engine was out. So if you can get all that junk out of the way, the manifold is fairly easy to get at. The bolts however can be fun. Use lots of penetrating fluid working them back and forth. You may even need to use heat to get them loose. The real difficulty in the bolts is the position you are in to get at them. They weren't that bad when I had the engine on a stand.

Mine are a bit different though, as the headers are designed for a early model Mustang, so I needed some exhaust work done, and needed to fab up an EGR mount on the passenger side header, I think I still saved over a new set of headers.

Trevor
 

Last edited by t_dickie; Oct 25, 2005 at 07:55 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 10:22 PM
  #6  
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dhag911
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
i already have all the air pump stuff disconnted and out of the way
 
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 09:16 AM
  #7  
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Blurry94
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From: Calhoun GA
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Originally Posted by Jack01
I have done a many exhaust manifolds on the Hummv built for military applications.. the best thing I found to do is to spray and then spray some more with a penetrating oil warm them up just a bit then break the bolts free by hand and then use my air tools to remove them from there...
I second that...I've used this method time and time again and it makes the removal/install process much easier.
 
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