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I have a 94 E150 with a 351 engine. It has 150k miles on it and runs great. I had the transmission flushed at 120k miles. About once every 200 miles the transmission seems to drop down a gear, the engine races, there is a hard clunk when it shifts back up and then everything goes on as normal. This always happens at light throttle and low load. It will happen with OD on or off. I have taken it to a dealer and there are no codes and no obvious problems.
That is a classic sypmtom of a roller clutch turning loose. This would account for the lack of codes. Do you know which transmission you have? With a 351 I would assume its an E40D but it could be a 4R70W.
Its also possible you have an electronic problem that just hasn't gotten bad enough to set a code yet. Most codes require that the problem occure a set number of times during a single key cycle or within a specified amount of time. A bad MLP (Manual Lever Position sensor) could do this, as could an occasional hiccup in the speed sensor or TPS.
I have seen both situations. This type of problem is particulaly difficult to dianose because of its infrequency. The sensors are relatively cheap and easy to replace so you could try replacing the MLP, VSS and TPS and see if the problem goes away. If not its very likely a roller clutch turning loose. The three sensors should cost about $100 from a dealer.
With a 351 I would assume its an E40D but it could be a 4R70W.
No 4R70W with the 351. They were all E4OD.
Originally Posted by Clubwagon
A bad MLP (Manual Lever Position sensor) could do this,
I've seen MANY that had a failing MLPS, also called the TRS, Transmission Range Sensor. It will cause your exact symptoms as it is failing, but the trans usually dies before the sensor gets bad enough to set a code.
Change the MlPS (TRS) before the others. That's probably what's wrong.
Yep, that was my assumption too until I saw a 4R70W behind a 351. Seen lots of stuff like that suprized me like that. I had a fleet customer that had an entire fleet of Ford F250s that had 4R70Ws w/ 4.6s in them.
I agree that its most likely the MLPS but the reason I suggested replacing all three is the VSS is $16 and the TPS is $24. For less than $100 you get all three. We did exactly this at my shop for years. Typically, in this type of situation we would advise the customer that it was most likely the MLPS and quote him a price for replacing it that included the VSS and TPS. If it solved the problem we were heros. If we only changed the MLPS and it didn't solve the problem, the customer always wanted his money back for the MLPS, which of course we can't return. Also, they would become frustrated at having to change the sensors one by one, paying for each and it not solving the problem. It was a much better solution to change all three and advise the customer that if this didn't fix it that it would in fact be internal.
Thanks for the quick response. I don't understand why my dealer didn't make any of these suggestions but I don't mind risking $100. Are the MLPS, VSS and and TPS something I can do in my garage without special tools. I have done a TPS on another vehicle in the past. Since I am doing it myself I may just start with the MLPS and see if that is the fix.
The MLPS mounts on the side of the transmission with a couple of simple bolts. The only trick is getting it properly set/adjusted. I always select neutral and see if it starts. The VSS is not only cheap but easy. A single mounting bolt holds it in place attop the rear end housing. The TPS is the toughest, but only because of the location and the tiny little bolts that are loctited in place.
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