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I have a little valve clatter (I think that's what it is) after my H260 instalation which I suspect is is normal based on some of the comments that I got here and at ford six. However, I just want to confirm that my oil pressure is OK. The idiot guage on my dash is well into the normal range (just as it was before), but how do I get the actual oil pressure value?
PS
I'm running 10W-30 and the ignition timing is at about 11d BTDC. It was just a little noisier before when I had it at about 14. I'm using the original stock springs. My lifter pre-load was between .050 and .060 accross the board.
my best guess would be to toss the idiot gauge and stick in a real oil pressure gauge so you know exactly what your at. I did this to my f150 a few weeks ago. its not really hard to do and it should only cost you 30-50 bux depending on the gauge. just stuck the gauge at the bottom of the dash. im not sure but they may even make an adapter to stick into where the oil sending unit is temporarily to get a true reading. unfortunately i dont know if these are made or even exist.
Do I need to buy a new sending unit too to get an accurate reading? My truck is a 1995. I assume it's an electric sending unit. Correct? Is the sending unit that little brass looking like stud connecter behind the dip-stick hole?
Do I need to buy a new sending unit too to get an accurate reading? My truck is a 1995. I assume it's an electric sending unit. Correct? Is the sending unit that little brass looking like stud connecter behind the dip-stick hole?
Thanks
Yes you are correct the Oil Pressure switch (oil Pressure sending unit) is right behind the Dipstick.
I would just replace the oil pressure switch. (oil pressure sending unit).
I had an issue with my oil pressure gage being off ('92 F-150 4.9 EFI) so I bought one for around $10.00 at the parts store and replaced it and it is accurate. I beleive I took it Of with a 1-15/16 wrench If I remembered right.
Hi Wik
Your oil pressure gauge is most likely just an idiot gauge (the gauge in my 90 is), meaning that it only shows you have pressure and not how much. The sender is just an off and on switch , like an idiot light oil pressure gauge in a car, and will read the same with as low 5-10 pounds as it will with 50 pounds, so changing the sender won't do any thing, unless it just doesn't read. With that type of gauge if it reads at all , and it usually reads normal, it is working. You have to change to either a mechanical gauge , connected to the block , or an electric gauge with its own dedicated sender. You can put a pipe 'T' in the block and run the stock idiot gauge and an aftermarket mechanical or electric gauge that actually will show the pressure rising and falling (and how much pressure there is) and then you can compare it to the stock gauge that doesn't move at all.