Hey guys just did the WW, EBPV Removal, and tighten the wastegate now I notice a little oil running down the transmission and it looks like it is comming from the EBPV control shaft. I disconected it so it wouldnt cycle. Could this oil be coming from the turbo pedistal, I did remove the turbo, but I thought there would be alot more oil if this were the problem. I did put 2 new o rings under te turbo. If the EBPV shaft is leaking is there any fix for it.

 

A side note.....I did it, screwed it up even worse, I thought if I tighten up the two bolts that hold the turbo to the pedistal it would be fine...."OH NO" not me I just ended up snaping the head off the back bolt....now I have to find a shop that wont screw me on the price, I bet its going to coast a arm and a leg.

 

You gotta make sure you tighten bolts to just a 1/4 turn before they twist off. As a old truck driver told me on the wheat harvest, "tight's tight, and too tight is broke".

I guess you'll get a chance to look further into what is leaking from the turbo. Good luck with it!

 

IF you can get the turbo lifted up off the broken bolt, there should be plenty of meat left to put some vise-grips on.

Since you're going to have the turbo off again ....you can pull the pedestal off and remove the EBV shaft and plug the hole. That will fix that leak for good.

 

might be the lower pedestal o-rings (pedestal-block area). before i took mine out, there was the suspect case of the oil running down the side of the oil pan and transmission and dripping off the weep hole. so there fore i replaced both lower and upper pedestal o-rings. you NEED new o-rings now. even if you didnt run the truck, the o-rings are crushed now and will not seal like it should. i learned the hard way.

 

Isn't there an oil passage to the solinoid that needs to be blocked so that the turbo is not starved for oil when you remove the rod?

 

No, I gutted mine 1 1/2 years ago and have had no such problems. Believe me if I was gonna have a problem I would have known by now

 

Well guys I defentaly do that...and for the few minutes I got to test drive it I noticeed a lot of difference, after replacing the orange intake boots and the WW. I cant believe I broke tah bolt...After all that work. On a side note I had a hell of a time getting that back exhaust clamp back on, I had to actually had to lengthen the bolt, cause the two flanges didnt meet up.

 

well, then somethings wrong. there is a little "dot" sticking out of the cast-iron flange on the turbo. it has to fall in it's respective place on the collector pipe (there is a indentation that the dot will rest in, to assure a positive placement. what i did was remove the bolt and then opened the clamp enough to move it off the flange area, i pushed it back on the collector pipe some and left it there, that way it was easy to get back on once i had the turbo back in. do not use it with the lengthened bolt, that just means something is wrong. put it back like it should be.

 

I didnt see a dot or tab on the turbo the two pipes just meet and then the clamp pulls them together.....

 

look again. it is at 12 o'clock if you are looking down into the up-pipes/collectors. let me see if i can find a pic here for ya.

here they are- the first one is with the turbo upside down. see the hole?

 

Oh yeah well I think it lined up I just think I might have tweeked the exhaust allitle trying to break the clamp loose in the first place.

 

Those are great pictures, I will defentally take a look when I get it off again, Thanks alot.

 

credit Stu Haas- https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...tallation.html is where i got the pics from.

 

What did you use to plug the hole where you removed the EBPV sylnoid. just curious cause I plan on doing this when i remove the turbo again