Stripped frame weight??
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
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From: Mine Hill NJ
Stripped frame weight??
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Does anyone have any idea what the stripped frame from a 68’ f100 weighs? I’m talking rails and cross member only. No suspension i.e. springs out, axel out, I-beams gone, shocks gone. Nothing but rails, cross supports, and cross member.
I want to assemble a tank for electrolysis to do the frame and other parts of my truck.
The tank only needs to be about 6 or so feet wide and 19 feet long with a 30 inch depth but since it’s like 800 gallons of water and I am doing the whole truck I want to do more then just the frame (doors, cab bottom, hood, radiator mount, Fenderwells and fenders.). The baking soda solution will still be usable too. I don’t have help so I need to figure out a way to lift the thing in and out. I’ve stripped the bed off and I think I can lift the rear of the frame myself but the front cross-member looks to be beefy.
One option I don’t like is to suspend the thing above the tank do the other pieces and then do the frame. But since the bottom of the cab needs work too this doesn’t work out very well for me.
The frame for the tank will be made from 2x 4’s each section 6’8” long. Two end pieces and 6 side pieces (3 each side) bolted or screwed together. The whole thing gets lined with heavy mil plastic. So I could just drag the frontk over the wall first and then lift the crossmember in last with a hoist. The object is suspended in the bath and not resting on the bottom so a hanger frame will be needed. The hanger frame can be done with boards resting right on the side walls.
So I’m back to the question: Does anyone have any idea what the striped frame from a 68’ f100 weighs? Or even the weight of the stripped cab or full sized bed?
Thanks
John
fficeffice" /><o></o>Does anyone have any idea what the stripped frame from a 68’ f100 weighs? I’m talking rails and cross member only. No suspension i.e. springs out, axel out, I-beams gone, shocks gone. Nothing but rails, cross supports, and cross member.
I want to assemble a tank for electrolysis to do the frame and other parts of my truck.
The tank only needs to be about 6 or so feet wide and 19 feet long with a 30 inch depth but since it’s like 800 gallons of water and I am doing the whole truck I want to do more then just the frame (doors, cab bottom, hood, radiator mount, Fenderwells and fenders.). The baking soda solution will still be usable too. I don’t have help so I need to figure out a way to lift the thing in and out. I’ve stripped the bed off and I think I can lift the rear of the frame myself but the front cross-member looks to be beefy.
One option I don’t like is to suspend the thing above the tank do the other pieces and then do the frame. But since the bottom of the cab needs work too this doesn’t work out very well for me.
The frame for the tank will be made from 2x 4’s each section 6’8” long. Two end pieces and 6 side pieces (3 each side) bolted or screwed together. The whole thing gets lined with heavy mil plastic. So I could just drag the frontk over the wall first and then lift the crossmember in last with a hoist. The object is suspended in the bath and not resting on the bottom so a hanger frame will be needed. The hanger frame can be done with boards resting right on the side walls.
So I’m back to the question: Does anyone have any idea what the striped frame from a 68’ f100 weighs? Or even the weight of the stripped cab or full sized bed?
Thanks
John
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 123
Likes: 1
From: Mine Hill NJ
Having an open pool of water in a shop with 800 gallons of water is asking for rusted equipment. Plus Electrolysis creates hydrogen gas. The frame will be in the tank for at least 48 hrs if not more. Always do Electrolysis out in open air.
If you do it at home use baking soda so the waist water is not damaging to the soil.
Dont smoke anywhere near the pool for at least a half hour afterwards so any clouds of gass can disapate. Just thnk Hindenburg Hydrogen has alot more kick than natural gas, methane, propane, or acetaline. Fooom!!!
That said I can and will be setting up a scafold and pulleys, but supporting the items on the pools walls serves two functions. first the obvious is solid support, and second it is safer to attach the power lead to the object this way. If you suspend it from a rigging it can move and possibly cross the contacts.
If you do it at home use baking soda so the waist water is not damaging to the soil.
Dont smoke anywhere near the pool for at least a half hour afterwards so any clouds of gass can disapate. Just thnk Hindenburg Hydrogen has alot more kick than natural gas, methane, propane, or acetaline. Fooom!!!
That said I can and will be setting up a scafold and pulleys, but supporting the items on the pools walls serves two functions. first the obvious is solid support, and second it is safer to attach the power lead to the object this way. If you suspend it from a rigging it can move and possibly cross the contacts.
