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I was driving my 76 F150 (300, auto) to work this morning and something strange happened. I was cruising at 60 mph for about 10 minutes and came to a stop light. All of a sudden the truck starting shuddering and stalling and it died. :-( I cranked it up and it started with a little bit of trouble, so I gave it some gas, the light turned green and I drove away. I went about another 5 minutes up the road and the same thing happened. So I started it up and continued up another road, this time at about 35 mph. It ran fine after that, no stalling, no low idle, smooth as glass. It has never done this before and I had about 3/4 tank of fuel. Any ideas as to what the problem might be? Thanks...
I had the same problem, it only died when the engine got hot like when running at high speed, we changed the fuel filter, fuel pump, ignition module, and still no luck. So after a few days we found out it was the Coil. What happens is over the years the vibrations wear out the coil and when it heats up from the engine heat, stuff expands and the coil dosen't get off a spark. The next time this happens, quickly get a damp towel and put it on the coil to cool it down. Itwill start right up after that, and it will get you home. Then run down to the nearest auto parts store and pick up a new coil.
By the way this happened to my '81 f-100 with a 300ci. I-6.
P.S. Vapor Lock, is when the fuel is heated (from engine heat) into a vapor before it enters the carb. But newer engines with sealed fuel systems (ie. emission controls) has a fuel line vent that routes vapors back to the gas tank. and if it is true vapor lock, then you can fix that by putting a cool rag on the Carb. and makeing sure that all fuel lines are routed clear of any hot engine parts.
OK guys, it did it to me again this morning. This time I was driving across town and it was stalling at stop lights and dying. Kept having to put it in neutral and give it gas to keeep it alive. The temp was about 47 degrees so I doubt it was vapor locking. The truck had not reached full operating temp but I did stop for a minute and let it idle. It was running real rough so I gassed it up a little and it seemed to smooth out. As soon as I got out and popped the hood to look around, the problem went away. I got on the highway and drove to work without a hitch.
PS - On my way home yesterday, the temp was about 70 degrees and it drove flawlessly. Not once did it stumble or try to stall. Could it be the carb?
I would say yes to the carb. When you first start the truck it runs off the fast idle circut. That basically means it's drawing fuel from both the idle and main jets. Has it warms up and the chock closes it will start to draw fuel only from the idle bleeds. There could be some varnish or dirt or some other particles in the circut that is causing a restriction on the idle side. A rebuild kit cost between 15 and 25 bucks and I think with that, and a thorough cleaning of the carb, will stop your troubles.
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This sounds like a carb problem. You could have a sticky needle seat assembly or a clogged filter. The stall allows the carb to refill off remaining/existing pressure in the system. Screw your idle screws down to measure the adjustment. Then pull your idle screws out and blast some carb cleaner in them. Reinstall them at the original setting. Drive the truck and see if it makes a difference. I'll bet it doesn't!
Another trick is the Tiaquana tuneup. Run your vehicle at an idle. Pinch the fuel line off and rev the motor up till it runs out of gas. Release the fuel line and start her up. This can clear a carb of garbage.
Lastly, remove the carb and hold it upside down. Drain the gas out of it and reinstall it. Surprisely, this works very well.
Of course, none of these is as good as the real McCoy, a rebuild.
KingFisher