power brakes
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Senior User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 353
Likes: 1
From: Bayonne NJ
power brakes
I would like to convert over to power brakes for my 1979 f100. what will i need and how much trouble is it? also anyone know anything about converting to power door locks and windows? who sells kits? how hard is it to do? ect.....
thanks
thanks
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Sandy USA
power brakes
>I would like to convert over to power brakes for my 1979
>f100. what will i need and how much trouble is it? also
>anyone know anything about converting to power door locks
>and windows? who sells kits? how hard is it to do? ect.....
>
>thanks
a company called electro lift dose a window kit lock arent to hard I put them in my 76 crew cab the front doors it was a clip on and mount to the inside of door and locate switch I use used ford parts and made my own wire harness
late 80 LDT accuators and rods and mount
Late 80s to early 90s torus switches
I then installed a keyless entry system
John Workman
76 F250 Crew Cab short bed
>f100. what will i need and how much trouble is it? also
>anyone know anything about converting to power door locks
>and windows? who sells kits? how hard is it to do? ect.....
>
>thanks
a company called electro lift dose a window kit lock arent to hard I put them in my 76 crew cab the front doors it was a clip on and mount to the inside of door and locate switch I use used ford parts and made my own wire harness
late 80 LDT accuators and rods and mount
Late 80s to early 90s torus switches
I then installed a keyless entry system
John Workman
76 F250 Crew Cab short bed
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
power brakes
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 18-May-02 AT 11:02 AM (EST)]Joe,
LMC has the complete kit for power windows for 2 doors for 149.95... they also have a kit for electric door locks.
Hope this helps!
Don
LMC has the complete kit for power windows for 2 doors for 149.95... they also have a kit for electric door locks.
Hope this helps!
Don
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,373
Likes: 46
From: Palm Bay, Florida
power brakes
On swapping to power brakes, just find any '73-'79 F100-350 truck, and get everything:master cylinder/booster, and bracket from the firewall, the pedal too, plus you might want to get the vacuum fitting from the engine if its simmiliar to yours so you will have a place to hook up the vacuum for your brakes.
My advise is if you get the whole setup from a junkyard its best to be safe and use the booster and m/c as cores and get newly rebuilt stuff.
You can probably use the JY stuff, but why trust unknown parts (brake parts) with your safety, or your truck for that matter.
Do not try to mix parts from one year to anouther, because somewhere along the line the booster & brackets changed.
My advise is if you get the whole setup from a junkyard its best to be safe and use the booster and m/c as cores and get newly rebuilt stuff.
You can probably use the JY stuff, but why trust unknown parts (brake parts) with your safety, or your truck for that matter.
Do not try to mix parts from one year to anouther, because somewhere along the line the booster & brackets changed.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
From: Virginia
power brakes
From what I've heard, you need to change the pedal because the pivot point is different. I imagine that the non-power brakes are set up to give you more leverage and if you use it with power brakes you will end up with extra sensitive brakes.
If you get the swap done, please post and let us know how it went. I'm interested in doing this to my '74 F-100.
I really hate losing the core charge, however it seems to me that if you skipped a step and bought all the parts for a specific year (booster, master cyl, etc) from the local autozone (or other auto supermarket), and pulled only what was left from the junkyard (pedal, some hard lines maybe) it would save a lot of time and effort (and possibly money). Unless the core charge is the same or more that what you paid for the part at the yard, then you're losing money. I would also wager that the parts people (at least at the auto supermarket places) can't tell a PB master cylinder from a non PB master. Just turn the old one in as a core.
Mark
If you get the swap done, please post and let us know how it went. I'm interested in doing this to my '74 F-100.
I really hate losing the core charge, however it seems to me that if you skipped a step and bought all the parts for a specific year (booster, master cyl, etc) from the local autozone (or other auto supermarket), and pulled only what was left from the junkyard (pedal, some hard lines maybe) it would save a lot of time and effort (and possibly money). Unless the core charge is the same or more that what you paid for the part at the yard, then you're losing money. I would also wager that the parts people (at least at the auto supermarket places) can't tell a PB master cylinder from a non PB master. Just turn the old one in as a core.
Mark
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Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 5,373
Likes: 46
From: Palm Bay, Florida
power brakes
yes, the reason for switching the pedal is because of the pivot points being different, pedals are easy to change, just watch how the one comes out of your donor truck, and you'll do fine, as far as just getting the bracket and pedal and buying rebuilt parts new, and paying the core charge because you don't have any cores to turn in, I really don't know, about the cost difference, some cores can be expensive, so you might want to inquire first so you can plan what to do.
Please come back & let us know how you come out.
Please come back & let us know how you come out.
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