Need help with this idea
Need help with this idea
Im sure some of you remember awhile back I was working on a 352 that had mis-matched heads etc on it. Well I put on a set of exhaust ported C4's , and done things like new gaskets, oil pump, and used the cast iron manifold back on it , with the I guess stock cam. Im not building this for mysefl but anyways, I plan on changing the cam and intake, so what do you guys recommend to give me quite a bit more go. I plan on changing over to headers also. The vehicle is geared 3.50 and its does alrite just runs out of breath with the manifolds and isnt that peppy off the line. Also would going to a pertronix unit hurt any?
Well, since the heads are off of it, now would be the perfect time to measure the deck clearance. This will give us a rough idea of what compression this thing will have, and allow us to give a good cam recommendation.
Oh, and on the intake, go Performer RPM.
On the ignition, I like the Mallory Unilite distributor that I'm using. When installed correctly and their active power filter is used, it is very reliable. It does cost more than the Pertronix, but I feel it's worth it.
Oh, and on the intake, go Performer RPM.
On the ignition, I like the Mallory Unilite distributor that I'm using. When installed correctly and their active power filter is used, it is very reliable. It does cost more than the Pertronix, but I feel it's worth it.
I think you read me wrong,
the heads are back on it, it is currently running in the car. Its a 352 rotating assemble in a C6ME block, with c4ae heads. And the pistons are flatops with "no" vavle releifs or dish.
the heads are back on it, it is currently running in the car. Its a 352 rotating assemble in a C6ME block, with c4ae heads. And the pistons are flatops with "no" vavle releifs or dish.
the 3.50 has to go and a 3.73:1 needs to go in with a thick shime on the cluch pack to help kick the poss. track in sooner. the 3.73:1 will give your the punch off the line. the thick shimes will make the meat grabb the street
you can get in the 2001 lighings to present.
you can get in the 2001 lighings to present.
Last edited by chevy tow truck; Oct 17, 2005 at 08:28 PM.
Well, I think your compression will be somewhere around 9:1. That's with the emphasis on "somewhere around".
There are two cams that would work, either the Crane 343901 or the Crane 343941. Use the 901 for more low end torque, and the 941 for more top end HP.
There are two cams that would work, either the Crane 343901 or the Crane 343941. Use the 901 for more low end torque, and the 941 for more top end HP.
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Originally Posted by thunderguns71
Id probably use the 901 then, the 3.50 gears is probably all it will ever get. Ofcourse it would help if it was 4 speed, but i guess an automatic will do.
Same here, its all i got in my 5200lb truck.
Thunderguns71, i hope you are not using stock springs. I have tested 5 or 6 sets of STOCK fe springs and they are completely solid at 1.250-1.270.
With a 1.82 installed height minus .524 for 1.73 ratio exhaust lift euals 1.296. Then the absolute mininum clearence is .060 before coil bind. 1.296-.060 is 1.236.
Now I have run the 343901 on stock springs but the installed heights were way off, 1.900 range. There was no shims, they were setup, no wait they weren't setup by the previous builder.
Spend the $64 for the 99837 springs or whatever the new recommeded springs are.
With a 1.82 installed height minus .524 for 1.73 ratio exhaust lift euals 1.296. Then the absolute mininum clearence is .060 before coil bind. 1.296-.060 is 1.236.
Now I have run the 343901 on stock springs but the installed heights were way off, 1.900 range. There was no shims, they were setup, no wait they weren't setup by the previous builder.
Spend the $64 for the 99837 springs or whatever the new recommeded springs are.
Here's a link to Crane's online cam card for the 343901.
They recommend their 96801 springs. They used to recommend the 99837 springs.
They recommend their 96801 springs. They used to recommend the 99837 springs.



