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No oil burning as far as I can tell. Clean tale pipe no oil in air box, clean plugs, Stick ALWAYS right on full.
What do you think Rotella T syn 5w 40?
Then why change?
I used Castrol GTX for years in other veh.I have owned,had no problems with any of them.I now use Mobile 1 in 2 of the 3 vehs..because of the miles that these vehs.are driven in a month.
All of the name brand API/SM oils are very good. Trying to pick the 'best' one is splitting hairs. TropArtic blend and Havoline dino are my favorites due to low prices.
In keeping with Ed's tongue-in-cheek oil selection, I have decided to start using drain oil from quickie lube joints. Either that or scamzoil...
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Oppy: "Scamzoil"????!! Whoaaaaa, that might raise some eyebrows! Bright Yellow container? Has the Liberty Bell on it? With the 1776 "crack line"?
Has the secret formula, "Code Z-7"? That "Scamzoil"??? From Oil City, PA?
You guys never cease to amaze me with your humor...for engine oil, none the less!! Ed
actully, if you look at a bottle of penzoil nowsays it says houston texas, instead of oil city pa. same as quaker state. dont know if one company bought out the other or if a 3rd company bought both out. ive heard negitive things about Q.S. for years, dont know if its true or if its just due to poor maintenece but i'll keep my "yellow bottle" is been good to all my engines.
Have always ran castrol gtx. My dad ran it for a long time in his racing engines. He ran dirt track sportsman class, with a 302 engine, would turn that engine up to 10,000 rpm with stock crank and rods. the rest of the motor was modified for racing of course hehe.
Anyways he originaly had ran wolfshead racing oil and had no problems except they had stopped making it. so he had built a new motor and ran valvoline racing oil, last lap of its first run, threw a rod through the block. Took that motor apart and the bearings where all turned blue they had got that hot they seized right to the crank. checked all the parts over and it seemed that the oil had just broken down at the high tempatures. Afer that he switched over to castrol gtx and never lost an engine, and wiht the hard driving that they would receive thats good enough for me
Smallblock, now that seems like a heat related "failure"! And the engine blew, on the last lap?!! Oh, I'll bet your Dad was disgusted! On the other hand, with a just rebuilt motor, maybe the inititial "start-up" and break-in was the real culprit? Too much metal shavings, etc. in a "tight" motor, run at high rpms, + high heat and stress conditions, on a dirt track? On a dirt track, not only do you have a lot of RPMs on the motor, but extra wheel spin, as compared to asphalt racing. Of course this is all speculation on my part. Maybe it was the Valvoline Racing oil? What viscosity did your Dad run in the 302? Another thing too, conventional oil might need some help in a full-tilt race boogie motor, IE: "oil coolers" ect. Again, speculation on my part. When your Dad tore down the motor, he knew what caused it the piston to head north, and the rod to head south, haha!
For conventional oil, I feel Chevron Supreme or Phillips 66 "Trop Artic" / Blend (Conoco) gives an engine quality protection and OCI service, for the cost, per quart.
CITGO SuperGuard, too! Their 15w40 Diesel oil (Citgo) is also a top-tier diesel lubricant.
Lastly, Wolfshead Oil, QS and Pennzoil, were all "family reunion cousin oils" in the 60s and 70s, from NW PA. Yes, now I realize Shell Oil makes Pennzoil and "Q", the later making sure all our engines are delivering the horsepower we paid for! Including "Q" used in our Briggs and Stratton lawnmowers! "Q" will cut more grass, per lawnsize, than "P". Arnold Palmer's tractor in Pennsylvania, says otherwise!
Ed
yes my dad was pretty annoyed he was turning the track record and was half a lap ahead of everyone lol. Anyways could be right about tight motor etc, but he never had that problem after switching to castrol. And not sure what the valvoline racing oil was as far as weight hehe.
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