Mig or Tig or ???
Senior User
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I've got to go with mrxlh on this one; go with a TIG / stick combo especially if you want to do a fair amount of stainless or aluminum. Then use the stick for heavier steel the TIG won't handle. We have used our MIG for AL & SS but with the TIG you have such better control of your amperage which yields better quality (structurally and cosmetically) welds. If not in a production situation, I prefer the TIG for AL and SS and I've welded lots of 1/4" and 3/8" aluminum with the TIG. On aluminum you can get the proper weld penetration more consistently and easier with the TIG.
A lot of people mistakenly believe that TIG welding is only for lighter gauge material: it's certainly one of the top methods for thinner gauge but it's very useful for heavier stuff too.
A lot of people mistakenly believe that TIG welding is only for lighter gauge material: it's certainly one of the top methods for thinner gauge but it's very useful for heavier stuff too.
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Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
So true to weld heavy material with Tig as long as you have the power or amperage to do it. Aluminum takes alot of current, that's why I chose a 350 Synchrowave over a 250.
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Seems to me about 175 on 1/4" aluminum. We have a Hobart Tigwave 250 with a Miller watercooler.
FLGargoyle: TIG is excellent for bodywork. You will need small electrodes and collets - not a lot of extra expense. You can get special filler rod for TIG welding mild steel. It gives a much cleaner weld than regular oxy/acet. filler rod. If you will only be welding the light stuff you can get by with an air-cooled torch which will save you a lot of $$$.
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Post Fiend
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From: "Islander"
Air cooled torch will be smaller, you can get into tighter spaces. I run a DW 20 torch with long tungsten and cap. Been told Mig welds on auto sheetmetal is alot harder than welds with Tig to file or grind down.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Bossier City, LA
Correction, the air cooled torch is bigger, not smaller. Also FL, for body panels and light sheetmetal, I use .030 or .035 mig wire off of 1# spools. You can cut it any length you want and it straightens real easy. Mig wire and tig wire for mild steel should be ER70S. For stainless should be 309, while 309 is a touch more expensive than 308, 309 can be used for joining stainless to steel by AWS standards, 308 may not. I also use 309 in 1# spools. Aluminum I highly recomend 5356 over the 4043. While 4043 flows a little better, it is produces a weaker weld. 4043 works better for a root pass on cast alum, it pulls the trash out of the cast (oil and greas that is trapped) better, then grind or buff it up and use 5356 out from there. For body work I would recomend 1/16 tungsten. Steel or Stainless use 2% thoriated (red on the end) for alum use pure tungsten (green on the end) One other trick that works well for aluminum is use the biggest cup you can and turn your gas up to about 25-30 CFH and DO NOT pull your filler rod out of the shielding gas, keep it as close to the cup or below the cup as possible.
Ryan
Ryan
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
A great bit of information posted above, I used a air cooled torch that was smaller but alot lower in amperage, (apples / oranges ). To compare in the same amperage range, the air will be larger. One must be careful with different aluminum filler rod if the part getting anodized, I screwed up.
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Bossier City, LA
Beemer, did not consider amperage differences in torches. My old weldcraft 150 aircooled is bigger than my current weldcraft 250 watercooled. Although other brands may vary.
You would also be correct about the anodizing thing. One more tip from a self-proclaimed aluminum expert that directly relates. Better-Built truck tool boxes (Daws MFG.) produces their super shiny (clean) welds by using the same material as filler rod. So for any of you doing any home projects out of sheet aluminum that you will polish or anodize afterwords, do yourself a favor. Buy a larger piece of sheet than you need, take it to a sheetmetal shop and have them shear you off 1/8" wide strips to use as your filler metal for welding said project together. Daws actually bought a de-coiler and precision shear just to make thier own filler rods, it is just one of the ways they reduced their bottom line to increase profits. 5' long filler rods vs. 3' that they pay for buy the lb, not the whole roll. Big time savings realized. To think I learned all of this from a job interview that I did not take. Knowledge is power.
Ryan
You would also be correct about the anodizing thing. One more tip from a self-proclaimed aluminum expert that directly relates. Better-Built truck tool boxes (Daws MFG.) produces their super shiny (clean) welds by using the same material as filler rod. So for any of you doing any home projects out of sheet aluminum that you will polish or anodize afterwords, do yourself a favor. Buy a larger piece of sheet than you need, take it to a sheetmetal shop and have them shear you off 1/8" wide strips to use as your filler metal for welding said project together. Daws actually bought a de-coiler and precision shear just to make thier own filler rods, it is just one of the ways they reduced their bottom line to increase profits. 5' long filler rods vs. 3' that they pay for buy the lb, not the whole roll. Big time savings realized. To think I learned all of this from a job interview that I did not take. Knowledge is power.
Ryan
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Originally Posted by mrxlh
Beemer, did not consider amperage differences in torches. My old weldcraft 150 aircooled is bigger than my current weldcraft 250 watercooled. Although other brands may vary.
You would also be correct about the anodizing thing. One more tip from a self-proclaimed aluminum expert that directly relates. Better-Built truck tool boxes (Daws MFG.) produces their super shiny (clean) welds by using the same material as filler rod. So for any of you doing any home projects out of sheet aluminum that you will polish or anodize afterwords, do yourself a favor. Buy a larger piece of sheet than you need, take it to a sheetmetal shop and have them shear you off 1/8" wide strips to use as your filler metal for welding said project together. Daws actually bought a de-coiler and precision shear just to make thier own filler rods, it is just one of the ways they reduced their bottom line to increase profits. 5' long filler rods vs. 3' that they pay for buy the lb, not the whole roll. Big time savings realized. To think I learned all of this from a job interview that I did not take. Knowledge is power.
Ryan
You would also be correct about the anodizing thing. One more tip from a self-proclaimed aluminum expert that directly relates. Better-Built truck tool boxes (Daws MFG.) produces their super shiny (clean) welds by using the same material as filler rod. So for any of you doing any home projects out of sheet aluminum that you will polish or anodize afterwords, do yourself a favor. Buy a larger piece of sheet than you need, take it to a sheetmetal shop and have them shear you off 1/8" wide strips to use as your filler metal for welding said project together. Daws actually bought a de-coiler and precision shear just to make thier own filler rods, it is just one of the ways they reduced their bottom line to increase profits. 5' long filler rods vs. 3' that they pay for buy the lb, not the whole roll. Big time savings realized. To think I learned all of this from a job interview that I did not take. Knowledge is power.
Ryan
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
Originally Posted by Beemer Nut
Air cooled torch will be smaller, you can get into tighter spaces. I run a DW 20 torch with long tungsten and cap. Been told Mig welds on auto sheetmetal is alot harder than welds with Tig to file or grind down.
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