absolutely you can. a few threads back, just before i changed my plugs, i asked everyone here the proper way to do these on a V10, and our big V10 family responded big time. check back a few threads.

 

From what I could see, the plugs can be gotten with various sizes of extensions. Using a torque wrench on some of them may be the toughest part.

 

oh yeah! i used my inch lb. torque wrench with a swivel extension. you will definately need these for #3, 4, 5 and 9, 10 plugs. good luck. its not too awful bad.

 

A key thing is if we tell someone that they can do this,is that we tell them they need a source of compressed air available before removing the plugs.O r even before removing the cop's YOU HAVE BLOW THE AREA AROUND THE PLUG OFF before removing.Dirt ,little rocks all kinds of stuff could fall into the engine if you don't.
Then its too late, major problems can occur.
Something we need to stress
Rich

 

For the first time, I just checked the torque on my plugs. It took awhile, but they were all torqued fine. As recommended on this site, I bought a inch/pound torque wrench and set it to 168 in./lb. (which is 14 ft./lb. on a regular torque wrench). On the right side of the engine, I removed the are cleaner, the MAF housing and the air in-take tube that connects to the throttle body. I did this because I wanted to replace the stock air filter with a Fram re-usable Air Hog filter and to clean the MAF sensor with a spray can of electrical contact cleaner. Since I was curoius, I also removed the throttle body so I could clean it. Lots of gunk inside the intake manifold!!! To remove this, I had to disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle body. Once the cables were disconnected, I decided to unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the manifold and set the whole thing to the side, which seemed to give me more room to get at the plugs. I then pulled the large hose off of the left valve cover and disconnected a couple of other hoses from the intake manifold to give me more working space.

I then followed the instructions I found on this site. I used compressed air to clean around the plugs and once I removed the coil packs, I used the compressed air to clean out each spark plug cylinder. The ones in the back are a real pain, so you just have to take your time, especially on the passenger side. I hardest part for me, was that my truck is a tall 4x4, so I had to pretty much lay on the top of the radiator and front of the engine to get at the rear plugs.

This time all I did was checked the torque on the plugs, just to get my feet wet on this process. I'll probably re-torque the plugs in another 15K and then take the plunge and replace them after an additional 15K, which will put me right around 100K on the truck. P.S. The truck seems to run smoother with the re-usable air filter.

 

to answer your question vtmdsm the fuel rail doesnt have to be removed on any of the modulars to change plugs. they just tell you that so they can get paid four hours for a job that takes about 30 mins. except on a 5.4l expedition take 25 mins for the first 7 then about 15 or 20 just trying to get the coil bolt started on the last plug but yea a swivel socket and a couple extensions in lb torque wrench and a little anti sieze.. oh yea and motorcraft plugs of course never trust aftermarkets

 

Okay, hold on. Its one thing to check the torque on a plug, but something entirely different to remove a plug and re-tighten it. Do these plugs have compressable washers, and shouldn't you just verify that they are tightened to specs unless you plan to replace the washer?

 

Just replaced all of mine on my 2001 Ex. No washers on plugs and torque spec (for 2001 at least) is 11 ft. lbs. As stated in other posts, the air blow out is critical!

 

Thats a good question, when retorquing the plugs should they be just checked or should they be removed, antisiezd, and reinstalled? I was thinking one of these weekends this winter I would clean my MAF, clean the IAC, and check the plugs but now you have me second guessing myself on which way they sould be checked.

Until owning this truck I've never used a torque wrench for puting in spark plugs, and i've never thought much about replacing them untill around 100k miles but this thing has me a little concerned. How should they be checked? I also figured when I do the rest of the stuff I would also change the Air filter and Fuel filter. They both have about 8k miles on them and a little over a year. and I suppose an oil change will be due about that time to, sounds like a good sunday afternoon project in the shop. Just to conferm, is 14 ft/lbs the right torque with antisieze for an 03'?

 

Hi All --

Doing a search came up on this thread. I am wondering what the proper ft/lbs is for the spark plugs on my 2003 F250 V10 4x4?

Is it 14 ft/lbs? I read in this thread that on an '01 V10 it is 9 ft/lbs. Which is it?

Thanks for your replies...

biz

 

Hmm another good bit of info

 

The number I have seen is 132 In/lbs which equals 11 Ft/lbs. I would use an In/Lb wrench as you are less likly to exceed your safty margine due to setting tolerances. Steven

 

Thanks oldrifleman...Yes you are correct. As I was waiting for a reply to my earlier post...I decided to ask a fellow FTE member who works at a dealership. He confirmed it is 11 ft/lbs for a 2003 F250 V10.

Appreciate your reply...

biz