'76 Air conditioning
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 328
Likes: 4
'76 Air conditioning
I have a '76 F150 4x4 with factory AC. It blows nice and cold still, but the compressor is making a heck of a racket. I replaced the clutch on it, but it seems the noise must be coming from inside somewhere, I'm guessing a bearing.
My question is this: I could get a new compressor from LMC trucks, but I don't know if it comes like it did in '76 (freon capable) or if it needs the new stuff. Anyone know?
OR--is it possible to rebuild the compressor myself? Has anyone done that?
Thanks!
DutchmanAZ
My question is this: I could get a new compressor from LMC trucks, but I don't know if it comes like it did in '76 (freon capable) or if it needs the new stuff. Anyone know?
OR--is it possible to rebuild the compressor myself? Has anyone done that?
Thanks!
DutchmanAZ
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,746
From: Virginia
'76 Air conditioning
The new compressors usually now come with ester oil which is compatible with the old r12 and the new 134a. If you are going to put a new compressor on, You might want to get a new receiver-dryer and a nozzle/filter screen. You might have junk from the old compressor in the system. Then I would take it somewhere or borrow a vacuum pump and evacuate the whole system. Then buy the conversion kit that has the r134a and the oil all mixed together. Dump it in and you would be surprised how good it cools.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 796
Likes: 3
From: Anderson Northern Ca
'76 Air conditioning
franklin2,I just bought a 76 4x4and the air conditioner works poorly, do you know how much it costs to do the change over to the new refrigerant?
" bowties in the rearview mirror"
" bowties in the rearview mirror"
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 2
From: Gainesville, FL
'76 Air conditioning
All,
The old York compressors are not expensive. I believe a Tecumesh or a York can be had for around $100. Most shops can redo your soft lines for $20-40. An expansion valve will be required for about $20. R134a is worth 5.99 for 12 oz. Your system should hold about 3 cans. You will have to replace the dryer and flush the old oil out. You must vac the system down. R134a is very sensitive to moisture and it must be removed from the system. Guess at about $200 for parts and refrigerant. Labor for vac and charge can vary greatly. Manifold gauges are worth $100 and a vacuum pump is worth about $250. I bought a venturi vacuum pump for $14. It runs off my air compressor.
Good Luck, Have Fun,
KingFisher
The old York compressors are not expensive. I believe a Tecumesh or a York can be had for around $100. Most shops can redo your soft lines for $20-40. An expansion valve will be required for about $20. R134a is worth 5.99 for 12 oz. Your system should hold about 3 cans. You will have to replace the dryer and flush the old oil out. You must vac the system down. R134a is very sensitive to moisture and it must be removed from the system. Guess at about $200 for parts and refrigerant. Labor for vac and charge can vary greatly. Manifold gauges are worth $100 and a vacuum pump is worth about $250. I bought a venturi vacuum pump for $14. It runs off my air compressor.
Good Luck, Have Fun,
KingFisher
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,281
Likes: 18
From: Northern California
'76 Air conditioning
I'm in the process of installig factor air in my setup (73 F250) and I took the bottom off a used compressor that had great compression. I used carb cleaner and brake cleaner to flush out the old oil and stuff from the compressor and lines. I used compressed air to blow out all the lines and everything.
I just bought Ester oil (8 oz for $6.99) and replaced the seals with the new green R134 types. I bought the liquid oil that you pour directly into the compressor (fill hole on the side). I used a $25 mity-vac to vac out the system and I'm checking for leaks right now before I fill it with the R134.
It takes 10 oz of oil and ALL the old oil/water/junk should be removed. Carb cleaner works well because it dries quick with compressed air blown thru the lines.
The compressor should have oil in it's tanks as well as in the freon itself, that's why I bought the Ester in a pourable form. You should get the oil in the pressure can as well to lube the valves.
As a side note, I converted a R12 system to R134 by just adding the R134 2 years ago. It's still blowing cold, no leaks, but I think it's much better to drain and clean all the lines.
I just bought Ester oil (8 oz for $6.99) and replaced the seals with the new green R134 types. I bought the liquid oil that you pour directly into the compressor (fill hole on the side). I used a $25 mity-vac to vac out the system and I'm checking for leaks right now before I fill it with the R134.
It takes 10 oz of oil and ALL the old oil/water/junk should be removed. Carb cleaner works well because it dries quick with compressed air blown thru the lines.
The compressor should have oil in it's tanks as well as in the freon itself, that's why I bought the Ester in a pourable form. You should get the oil in the pressure can as well to lube the valves.
As a side note, I converted a R12 system to R134 by just adding the R134 2 years ago. It's still blowing cold, no leaks, but I think it's much better to drain and clean all the lines.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,999
Likes: 2,746
From: Virginia
'76 Air conditioning
The conversion kit I bought cost about $30.00. All it had were some fittings, a sticker, and three cans of refrigerant/oil mix. I have read all the stuff about flushing lines, changing o-rings and hoses etc. But the instructions with the kit say you don't have to worry about all that anymore. They say the old oil does not mix with the r134a and just lays in the system causing no harm. The kit says just dump it in and it will work, and I believe it would if the system has not been opened. But if you have to open the system for any reason, you will have to get it evacuated (vacuum pumped) before recharging.
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