Doing some research for my planned biodiesel project; thought I'd share some of the results. Since bioD is much more receptive to water retention than dinoD, I need a very effective water separator. I also want the best secondary (final) filter I can find. Here's the list:

Fuel Filters
Baldwin BF786 2 microns 2 50% pass rate, 7 microns absolute
Fleetguard FF5035 8 microns
Racor PFF 811 7 microns
INF811 2 microns (spin-on replacment, AquaBlock, drain valve)
Wix 33811 6 microns

Please note that the above filters are for 6.9 motors. They have the 7/8"-14 thread and the smaller diameter filter gasket. They will NOT fit a 7.3. Sorry. You'll hafta do your own research on that one.


Oil Filters
Baldwin B134 (IDI) 23 microns
B7039 (PS) 12 microns

Fleetguard LF3344 (IDI) 30 microns
LF3630 (PS) 30 microns

Wix 51742 (IDI) 25 microns
51734 (PS) 19 microns

IDI = shorter 6.9/7.3 oil filter
PS = longer, higher capacity 7.3 Power Stroke oil filter

I currently have an older Racor 200-series water separator as my primary filter. I'm using the newer cartridges for it - 10 micron, AquaBlock. It's effective, but changing elements is a pain. I'm considering switching over to a newer style spin-on primary filter/water separator unit. There are several on ebay; I just hesitate to spend the money when what I already have is actually pretty good.

 

Do most of you use the PowerStroke oil filter on the 7.3 NA or the standard oil filter?

 

If you are going to use a lower number micron rated filter, you should consider a fuel heater if your area gets cold in the winter. The finer the filter, the more prone it is to fuel gelling. Most name brand aftermarket filter kits offer a heater as an option. Don

 

What type of bio fuel are you planning on making. I started making a straight vegetable oil fuel cut with kerosen unleaded fuel diesel kleen additive and anti gel additive I run the the fuel thrue three filters befor putting it into my tank. A 10 mic, a 2 mic and a goldenrod water block filter it only takes about ten minutes to make and my truck runs real good on it.

 

One thing to also keep in mind is the normal flow through rating.

 

I'm making bioD based on the processor and procedure developed by these folks:

http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/appleseedprocessor/

Basically, I blend methyl hydroxide (methanol and lye) into heated vegetable oil and cause a reaction that generates biodiesel, glycerine and soap. I'll be 'cooking' about 200 gallons per month. I looked at running straight vegetable oil, but could never find any examples of high mileage (over 150K) usage. Most of the folks on various websites had less than 60K on their vehicles. I've heard stories about ring land erosion and oil lubricity deterioration, and since I currently drive about 3500 miles per month, this lack of info worries me. BioD is simply diesel fuel from another source: plants, not fossils. For my first batches, I'm using new, virgin fryer oil from Sam's. This puts my finished fuel cost at around $3.40/gallon, but it ensures good results and yields. Once I'm familiar with the process, I'll switch to used fryer oil, and my per gallon cost will drop to under $1. And I'll be using a fuel that produces fewer pollutants, less smoke and is easier on my motor than currently available dinoD. Pretty cool!